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Why I'm my mother's daughter

2011-08-16T07:10:00.002+03:00

I remember walking into the hospital wearing a matching pink outfit with my Mom on her day off. I'd race her as she walked to keep up (the adult stride is a built in 'leg up' ;)... the days of crawling into her bed when I had a bad dream or showing her new creepy crawlies (my name for insects) I had found have long gone. But there are things that she's ingrained in all of us kids which I now cherish (and are now becoming all the rage that were just part of the 'normal life' on the farm.) Thank you Mom for showing us how to:
Recycle
Compost
Garden fresh vegetables and fruits
Shop at local farmer's markets
Eat in season
Preserve what is in season via freezing or using a cellar
Appreciate the great outdoors... even if it's just a tent in the backyard or sleeping on the trampoline

Travel to see a person, not the place

2011-08-01T08:29:00.003+03:00

The final 10 days of my trip have been a fabulous break full of good people, places and food with a common thread of familiarity. I've been to each city before so instead of coming to see certain sites or take specific pictures, I'm simply enjoying each place and my fabulous hosts.

Germany - A fabulous re-connect with family
hosts: my cousin Brianna and my aunt Margareta.
place: Erlangen area
activities: a family trip to Wuzburg, biking to a lake outside of the city, wandering the streets indulging in beer, coffee and spaetzle.

Toronto - a new look at an old friend
host: Higgins
place: Kensington and downtown
activities: biking around the city (including the Distillery, waterfront beers and eating at Fresh), chatting with friends at Victory Cafe, dub step, more good food at Union and random coincidences with my old roomie Joel

Halifax - chilled reflexions on the past and future
host: Julia
place: Halifax downtown, Lawrencetown,
activities: after-hours live music, surfing at Lawrencetown, waterfront walks, mussel feast, fresh lobster and strolls with Frank

The Russian Adventure

2011-07-23T15:26:00.002+03:00

Riga
It all began with a day trip to Riga (Latvia), my connecting city to Moscow. A lot of people think that the Baltic countries are very similar, but even after being in Riga for a day I now understand why Estonia considers itself a brother to Scandinavia and a cousin to the Baltics. Things in Estonia reminded me of Sweden – lots of blonde beautiful lean people who are put together. Riga was much more of a mix and leaned towards a Russian appearance. Both cities have an ‘old town’, but Tallinn is small and quaint, while Riga is busy, and a bit rougher around the edges. In Estonia most people under 30 speak English as a second language (and everyone speaks Estonian) and in Riga 60% speak Russian, while only 40% speak Latvian. The best part about Riga (that I saw) was the huge market by the bus station and chilling by the river.

The connection to Russia was made through a 15 hour bus trip to Moscow. I couldn’t find a cheap train connection, but apparently one exists which is the recommended way to travel.

Moscow (pop. 12-14 million)
The Russian adventure started out in Moscow. In one day we were able to see a ton with the first stop at the Red Square (including GUM (a ritzy mall), St. Basil’s Cathedral and Lenin’s tomb from the outside (it’s only open Monday and Friday from 10-1)). We also went into the Cathedral of Christ the Savior - one of the most impressive churches I’ve ever been into. Stalin tore it down with hopes to erect a Palace of Communism with his tomb inside, but as money ran out during WWII, the Palace was never completed. The Church was reconstructed based on the old blueprints in the 90’s. We also went to the White House (where Gorbachev gave his famous speech from the tank), Sparrow’s Hill (the look-out point to see the whole city), and went by Stalin’s 7 sisters (7 tower buildings all built the same with different materials). The last stop was to the Kremlin (the walled government fort)… but we were only privy to see a small portion. The highlight inside was seeing 5 authentic Faberge eggs (while Dad was happy to see the world’s biggest cannon and a huge bell). That night I ventured into the city solo to look at Red Square all lit up after dark and to take a tour of the metro stations. Stalin wanted the Moscow Metro to be top notch, so most central stations (including any on the brown line) are made of marble with mosaics, chandeliers, statutes, and stained glass. The metro transports 5-7 million and was more impressive than the Tube in London or the Metro in Paris!
The next day was a bit more relaxed, as I went to the Tretyakov Gallery to look at Russian Art. I was impressed to see the detail given to faces in portraits, while the bodies and backgrounds were slightly blurred. We also met up with Charene Welsh (a friend from Milk River who now lives in Moscow with her husband) who took us to www.genatsvale-resoran.ru for lunch, a great Georgian restaurant with good food and amazing décor. We strolled along Stary Arbat, a great pedestrian street full of souvenir shops which used to be the ‘European district’ where all the writers and artists lived.

Uglich (pop 40,000)
This was the first stop along the Volga River, a small and historic town which dates back to 937. It also boasts fantastic souvenir shopping, so I opted out of the hour long walking tour which went by the Church of St. Dmitry on the Blood and instead spent time wandering and haggling. The town was small and our stop was short, but the highlight of the day was passing by Kaliazin, a flooded bell-tower we just happened to notice while eating our lunch. Oh the wonders of cruising!

Yaroslavl (pop 615,000)
Yaroslavl is another ancient city (1010) which was key in international trade and was home to the first Russian theatre in 1750. We visited the Church of St. Elijah the Prophet to view 17th century frescos and also looked at the new Cathedral, funded by a new Russian tycoon (called Mr. Sponsor) opened last year to mark their millennial anniversary.

Goritsy
We had a brief stop in Goritsy to travel to Kirillov to visit the monastery of St. Cyril on the White Lake. This is the largest monastery in Europe, and used to have power over 20,000 serfs in 400 villages in the middle of the 18th century. Now only 6 monks reside inside!

Kizhi
Seeing the famous wooden Transfiguration church on this small rural island was a major highlight of the trip! Built in 1714 with 22 cupolas (domes), and held together by wooden nails – the church is magical, and a World Heritage Site. The whole island is designed to give tourists a feel for traditional rural life, so we also visited old homes, a windmill and a chapel.

Mandrogi
This is a reconstructed village built for tourism to ‘show’ the traditional lifestyle. Apparently Putin regularly visits during his holiday time, and the town is also home for hunting lodges and ‘survival camps’ (where you pay big money to be put in wilderness and are required to pick berries, make a fire, shelter, etc. within a controlled environment). I would’ve much preferred to stop at the real village a few km down the river, but some rich tycoon has the right friends and almost all of the cruise ships stop at this artificial tourist trap. On the plus side, it was a nice ‘green stop’ and a relaxing day before we re-entered civilization in St. Petersburg the next day.

St. Petersburg
We started the trip out with a city tour and the mandatory photo stops at Smolny Institute (an uncompleted monastery turned into a girls school by Catherine the Great), the Church of Spilled Blood (which looks similar to St. Basil’s in Moscow), St. Isacc’s and by a canal with a view of the Winter Palace. Our first real tour was within the Peter and Paul fortress, where all emperor’s are buried. Then the rest of the day was dedicated to the Hermitage – comprised of 5 buildings, the Winter Palace, the new Hermitage, old Hermitage, the Hermitage and Hermitage theatre. It’s the second biggest museum in the world (behind only the Louvre in Paris), and a fabulous museum. Most rooms are a showpiece unto themselves, and with pieces from Rembrandt, Picasso, Goya, Raphael, Da Vinci, Monet, Van Gogh, and a special exibit for Annie Leibovitz (the famous Rolling Stones, Vanity Fair and Vogue photographer) – I was well occupied for many hours.
The next few days we spent wandering around the city, which included climbing the collonade of St. Issac's Cathedral, watching a service at Kazan Cathedral (tourists aren't really encouraged to go inside so we really just happened upon this one), and the Museum of Non-Conformist Art (only a few studios were open so it wasn't really that spectacular). We also had tours of the Peterhof Palace gardens (famous for all the fountains) and of Catherine's Palace in Pushkin.
St. Petersburg has an amazing feel to it, with all the canals and buildings from the 17th/18th century. It felt very different from anywhere else in Russia and people here are said to be more open.

The MS Russ River Cruise
• Being one of three passengers under the age of 45 made this cruise interesting to say the least! Entertainment was random, with the opening variety show including an acrobat performing in front of a large screen TV and two magicians who had three of their tricks involving stripping! Oh Russian cruises…
• A highlight was the vodka tasting, which included 5 shots which washed down the pancakes (crepes) and caviar.

Russian Tidbits
• There is a Red Square (‘beautiful square’) and a Kremlin (‘fort’) in most older cities in Russia.
• People adopt the habits of their leader… currently the President and Prime Minister are church goers and there’s been a resurgence of believers. Also the hobbies of the leader is often followed by the population… from tennis to downhill skiing to yoga!
• Russians pay a flat tax of 13% for individuals and corporations
• There is little interest in environmental issues and limited if any access to recycling or green energy
• In the words of our Russian guide, Russians need to be lead to be held together. Although many families were affected by Stalin’s atrocities, they still can see positive aspects of his rule.

All in all the cruise was fabulous – a great way to spend time with my Dad and an ideal way to see both the urban and rural life in Russia. The food was great (lots of selection with tasty accommodations for vegetarians) and the atmosphere was relaxing. My only regret was not getting to know the crew better – as we had limited exposure to Russians and I had limited exposure to people under the age of 50. But after a few outgoing months of late nights and new friends, my body was happy to have a senior’s break!

Hear yea, hear yea… Estonia’s Tale

2011-07-13T10:08:00.002+03:00

Once upon a time in a far off land filled with magic and mystery lay the lady of Tallinn, Princess Kristina. When Lady Juliette from Canada came to visit, together they toured through the lands venturing into forests with potions and saunas, manor houses filled with music and hippies, and castles with fairy tale weddings. Let the tale begin….

Estonia simply captured my heart. Everything is quaint and nature was intertwined with every leg of the trip. Kristina was a perfect host showing me life behind typical tourist attractions.

The first few days I spent chilling in Tallinn, catching up on sleep, internet time, and exploring the wonders of the old town. A definite highlight was biking through the city- I miss my bike soooo much so having a few hours to tour was ideal. I’d also recommend the free tour of the old city and eating/drinking at Hells Hunt – great food for cheap. Aed (which means Garden) is also a great place to eat eco-friendly meals for budget-friendly prices. Most nights we would chill with friends in parks while drinking wine and eating chocolate/cheese.

I found my role model in Kristina’s grandmother when we went and visited her at her cabin in Haapsula. At 85 she grows all of her own food, swims in the sea every day, barters for milk, eggs, cheese, etc. with the neighbors and produces zero waste. This is what eco/hippie really looks like… which also has the perk of having her own sauna! Kristina and I enjoyed a sunset dip in the sea followed by a sauna session (after building our own fire to heat the room to 70*+) where we beat each other with birch leave boutiques and sweated out all of our impurities (of course with beer breaks mixed in ;) The next day we lounged by the sea, picked berries, sunbathed and swam. That night we made our way down to a festival in Southern Estonia (20km away from Tartu).

The festival was sweet, as it was held at an old countryside manor house and was complete with DJs in grainaries, bands in the barn and a random creepy circus performance in the middle. The weather was fabulous so we took a dip in the lake and cured our hangovers with more beer. The music was all indie Estonian and the people were all chill hippies. Things were even made better by camping out in a tent! I love this life!

On Sunday I was Kristina’s date to an Estonian/Kazakstanian wedding. It was so cool learning about all of the old traditions like tying a ribbon around a storks nest to see when and how many kids you’ll have, or burning an anniversary candle with all the guests blessing you with good wishes. Most of the guests were from AIESEC so the party was lively and at least 10 countries were represented in a 50 person wedding! This was a great fairy tale ending to my time in Estonia, as the reception was in a castle and the bride and groom were beautiful enough to be on the cover of a book!

Estonia Basics
Estonia really looks like the countryside described in fairy tales. Meadows and forests and castles galore! Estonia is also associated with folklore and most people don’t prescribe to religion. They were peasants who were ruled over the centuries by Danes, Swedes, Germans, Russians, etc. and won their independence in 1920… only to be occupied post WWII and again became free in 1992. Estonians prefer to be associated with Scandinavian countries (Norway, Sweden, Finland and sometimes Denmark) and not the Baltic countries (Latvia and Lithuania). They are 1.3 million strong and are fairly closed to immigration (although there’s not a huge rush either). Tallinn has a medieval theme, focusing on the old city and catering to the cruise ships that come into port daily. And they have storks… for real!

Adventures in London

2011-07-05T12:34:00.003+03:00

I got so comfortable with London by the end that it felt like 'my' city. Somehow I've managed 6 trips to the city, either as day trips or staying a max of 2 nights.

Trip 1 = Tate + Art Shows + wandering around the sites (Buckingham Palace, the Eye, Big Ben, etc.)
Trip 2 = Globe Theatre + Tate + crazy night out on the town + National Museum
Trip 3 = International Business Law tour = Clifford Chance LLP + EBRD (European Bank for Reconstruction and Development)
Trip 4 = Public International Law tour = Middle Temple + the Canadian High Commission
Trip 5 = health policy meeting + Wicked
Trip 6 = another night out + Wireless Music Festival

I really loved watching the musical Wicked. Definitely one of the best musicals I've ever seen and good fun for everyone. The way the story plays along with the Wizard of Oz but takes turns you can't predict was perfect!

My last few days in London were great b/c I was able to say good-bye to Chris (a friend from my SU days who now lives in London and let me crash and store my stuff with him a few times) and have one last epic adventure with Julia (my BF from the castle program). Julia and I went to the Wireless Music Festival and saw: Metronomy, Neon Trees, The Sounds, TV on the Radio, Cut Copy, Foals and Pulp!
Amazing!

I'm now in Estonia and lovin' the chill atmosphere with Kristina (BF/roomie/Umniah colleague in Jordan with me who's from Estonia). But these stories will be told another day.

Couchsurfing in Ireland and Northern Ireland

2011-07-04T06:43:00.001+03:00

For all the haters and disbelievers – let this be a piece of proof to show how safe and wonderful couchsurfing (CS) can be!

With a strange twist of fate, my first CS experience was with Mike and Magda (M&M)… who had their first couch-hosting experience with me! We hit it off straight away and it felt like I had been living with them for months within the first few hours. 2 other CS were also staying at M&M’s place and their 2 bedroom flat easily accommodated the 5 of us.

M&M are originally from Poland and have been living in Dublin for the past 3 years. Mike works in IT but has a side gig as a videographer and Magda works in Finance but is a very talented photographer.

There place was beautiful, spacious and very comfortable. I really felt at home and had the flexibility to hang out with everyone or take solo time. It’s so strange how close we became, as Magda made supper on night 1, Mike breakfast on day 2, I made supper on night 2 and the other CS made breakfast on day 3. Of course there were also beer and wine mixed in and shared around – which made for new found connections and great conversations! The five of us went into the city on Sat night and connected with another great CS, Roman. The hospitality we were shown from the Dublin CS was incredible.

In Belfast I stayed with 2 separate CS hosts to not overstay my welcome while being in the city for 6 nights! My first host was Phil who lives in Carrickfergus, a town famous for its castle just 20 minutes outside of the city (but connected by the Larne train line). Phil was a perfect host- I had my own room, a fresh towel, wireless access, space to cook and he even gave me a key! It’s a 2 story apartment with 2 rooms for couchsurfers, plus a huge kitchen and huge TV area with more couches! It was a very relaxing environment and Phil is a very chill and kind guy. When I needed to fax something to Canada after 6pm local time, he dropped what he was doing, looked up where to go and drove me to the nearest fax machine 10 minutes later! Stand-up fellow.

My next Belfast host was Natalie, who lives with 2 others in Adeline flats (10 minutes by bus from the city center). I lucked out b/c one of her roommates was away, so I got my own room again! It was nice staying within the city, and nice to meet more CSers (a Kiwi CS was also staying with Natalie while I was there).

To round out my CS experience, I also met up with Brian for lunch. Sometimes people are part of the CS community but don’t have the space or time to host people, so instead they make themselves available to meet for a pint or coffee so travelers can connect with locals and just talk.

CS has proved itself to be a great way to travel. You stay with locals and get to know the city much better. It’s much more intimate than hostels and a great way to meet a few people on a deeper level (instead of meeting a lot of people on a superficial level). I loved being able to cook for myself. I loved saving cash on accommodations. I loved the people I met – as CS seems to attract a certain breed of chill, authentic, traveling souls.

Belfast at it's best

2011-07-03T06:40:00.003+03:00

Northern Ireland had a research focus, mixed in with catching up with Rawan (a friend who I met in Jordan) and a few tourist sites.

My first full day was dedicated to research (a comparative study on the legal effects major healthcare reform has over the long term)– which didn’t go as planned when I was refused internet access at the University of Usler and I ended up in a pile of written pamphlets from the late 1980s. A full day of frustrating dead ends lead me to believe that a trip to Londonderry/Derry was required to get me out of the funk. So the next day I hopped on a train, spent most of the day reading a book, and checked out the 2nd largest city of murals where bloody Sunday occurred. The city is full of history, highlighted in various museums and viewed from the city walls you can walk atop. The train trip through the countryside was very relaxing and the clouds were phenomenal to watch.

The next day I took the Causeway tour which was well worth the 16 pounds for a day along the coast and a guide with a never ending speal of historic tales. We hit up Carrickfergus Castle, village, Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge, Giants Causeway, Old Bushmills Distillery and Dunluce Castle. If I were to do it again, I would’ve loved to walk 4 hours from Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge to Giants Causeway (as both have amazing coastal views), but the convenience of the tour was ideal.

By day 4 the research started to fall into place and I hit a gold mine when I interviewed Tom. He sent me on my way with contacts galore, 2 health policy books and my arms full of audio-tapes! I then met up with my 2nd couchsurfing host (Natalie) and had a relaxing night with a Kiwi, an Aussie and ‘light reading material’ (health policy books).

The best day was my last full day – starting with an interview with John Cole (who inspired my research project and the trip to Northern Ireland) which was very informative. I met another couchsurfer for lunch, before taking a black top taxi tour – a definite highlight. I wish I would’ve taken this tour on day 1 b/c it really gives you a basic understand of the history of the conflict in Belfast and is well worth it. I then met up with Rawan, ate amazing fajitas at Boojum, and headed into Stewardstown for a political talk about the Hunger Strike before finishing the night at a pub downtown.

Travel Tips:
• Getting to Belfast from Dublin is very easy, as the 200 Express Bus runs 24 hours a day and takes you from the central bus station or from the airport.
• Book the black top taxi tour through a hostel and if you’re traveling solo, ask if any of their guests want to carpool and split the cost.
• Bus tickets aren’t transferable (only good for one bus line one time) so get a day pass (2.90) if you’re going on more than 1 bus (each tix is 1.70).
• Check out the statutes of the labor ladies in front of the rail station (private property) that were too risqué to be placed on public property after being commissioned by City Hall!

The Basics of Northern Ireland
• The population is only 1.7 million, with about 800,000 in Belfast and the Republic of Ireland has about 4 million people.
• A wall separates the main Catholic Street from the main Protestant Street, which was temporarily erected in 70's but still stands today.
• Nationalists are often associated with Catholics, Unionists are often associated with Protestants and Republicans are a mix who want to see a united Ireland that is separate from the UK.
• Some communities remain very segregated meaning that university may be their first contact with the other side.
• Politics is everywhere and is a constant undercurrent.

Delightful Dublin

2011-06-27T02:29:00.002+03:00

Dublin has been quite a treat. It definitely was made incredible b/c of my first ever couchsurfing experience with Mike and Magda’s extraordinary hospitality… but that will be the next post.

The first morning I arrived to rain and a lack of sleep – which made for an odd adventure walking through the city in search of the Guinness Storehouse. Alas- the challenge defeated me, so I ended up having a few pints in The Ginger Ale. Exhausted and make-up free I met 2 locals – one who works for the EU in Brussels as part of the Irish Commission and one who writes stand-up comedy. It was so great being able to talk politics, using a bit of my castle knowledge (we went to Brussels on our IBL trip to meet with the Canadian Commission trying to make a trade treaty with the EU) was an unexpected lift and highlight. After being told I was so lost in the rain b/c I was reading the map upside down (West just ‘felt’ like it was on the left side of the street) I met up with Mike and we went back to food, beer and amazing chill time with Magda and 2 other couchsurfers – Luke and Brittney.

Day 2 Dublin = successful trip to the Guinness Storehouse (worth seeing it), a trip to Jameson’s Factory (not worth seeing, unless you’re one of the taster’s who gets 3 shots + a drink) and night out at various pubs. We watched tap dancers and Irish fiddlers at the Green Room with cliental ranging from 20-60, all singing along (amazing), Quays for some more live cover songs and Fitzsimons, which was chill with tons of hot Irish men. The Dublin nightlife is fantastic! The transit lines in Dublin take you everywhere and are super cheap. If you take a taxi, be warned that there is an additional 1 euro per person charge added onto the meter.

My last day was supposed to be a chill adventure to the Point and a walk around the cliffs close to Dublin… but I was detoured when I realized it was the semi-final games for ‘Gaelic football’ (somewhat like rugby, but with a round ball you can throw forward and must kick or bounce every three steps). Luckily I scored a free ticket in the lower bowl and sat beside a Dublin Ambassador who taught me about the game, Irish slang and poetry. The game was a nail biter fought to the bitter end and was a great send off from Dublin (given that the Dubliners won 15-14).

Now it’s off to Belfast!

Ode to the Castle

2011-06-18T21:46:00.002+03:00

It's one week left and I feel like I can't give you the appreciation you deserve.
With exams and peer stress, the only time I devote to you is because of the curve.

You treated us all so cordially, with fine weather and beautiful grounds.
The peacocks, the growing goslings were even more breathtaking after a few subsidized rounds.

I'm thankful for the food with daily salads and a protein filled veg-friendly quorn.
And even though things are familiar, the left hand driving reminds me that you're foreign.

The gym and zumba classes were much needed delights.
Trips to Portugal and Brussels made for never ending nights.

I'll remember chilling in the rose gardens and studying in the Elizabethan room,
Break-dancing UN delegate Robinson who dropped a bomb on our minds... boom.

Arriving as the solo UofC rep was the best part of it all
I made life long friends/colleagues who will be associated with the peacock call.

When Jon, Shannon, James and Cody said the castle was the best part of law school they were right.
International exposure, new connections and a new perspective illustrates how our futures are all so bright.

Lagos life (AKA Surfing in Portugal)

2011-06-15T12:30:00.004+03:00

I think I just found a lil piece of paradise. The surf in Lagos was ideal for beginners, as the beaches are sand, you can walk out in the whitewash which is strong enough to actually carry you 100 feet and you're not on top of hundreds of other clueless beginners. I was ashamed of my lack of skill surfing before I got to Lagos, as I had tried waves in Kauai, El Salvador, Nicaragua and Tofino but in Lagos everything came together and it wasn't about catching one or two waves... it was about perfecting your form on the 15-20 waves you catch! Amazing! And to boot, the weather was sunny and around 30 for the entire time we were there.

Our vacation was planned through Surf Experience, which gave us a sick house to stay in (kinda like a long term hostel) including transportation to and from the airport, full breakfast and healthy lunch, 4x4 transportation to and from the beaches, surf equipment and surf instructors for the day at a reasonable price. The guys that started The Surf Experience and who work as instructors are all incredible... most of whom have left former lives (one as a London Investment Banker) for a more relaxed lifestyle that is all about happiness and less about money. With RyanAir flying into Faro for as little as £12, you really couldn't go wrong with this weekend surf adventure!

The nights in Lagos were wild with 2 Euro shots and a town full of laid back peeps. Another perk was Jam Bar which has a fire show every weekend night at midnight. You'll have to see the facebook pics to really understand this one! The Surf Experience is very well connected with all of the bar and restaurant owners in Lagos, so whenever we'd turn up some place, we'd be greeted by a 'Welcome Team Canada' from the owner. Pretty epic! My fav was Sugar, who whipped up a sick BBQ at the house on Sat night for all of the surfers including pineapple veggie burgers and his own secret sauce. See below for a list of the must see places to go for food include The Green Room (burritos, quesidillas, and nachos only... cheap and amazing) and Casa Rosa (all you can eat/drink for cheap) and for nightlife: The Jam (fire show), Red Eye (darts, pool and chill all night long), Stevie Rays (DJ is one of the Surf Experience dudes - great dub), Inside Out (for after hours dancing) and Three Monkeys.

We explored Faro for the last night of our trip, which was a slower pace and less touristy/more Portuguese. It was a quiet night, as almost everything is closed on Sunday night, but we had some amazing Portuguese fish and 2 litres of wine for 4.50 euros! Our last day was spent chilling on the beach with mojitos in hand and sand in our hair as we boarded our plane back to castle life.

Field Trip Time... International Business Law Style

2011-06-06T12:00:00.001+03:00

Brussels and Paris and Geneva oh my! In 1 week we managed to see 3 countries and visit some very high end international business law (IBL) facilities... it was incredible! Being able to see what IBL can be in practice was facinating, grounding and exciting.

We took a coach from the Castle to Brussels, and the adventure began when our bus drove into a train compartment, which then went through the Eurotunnel which travels under the English Channel. Crazy!

We only had one night in Brussels and I was able to meet up with Claudia, a friend I had met in Jordan. She took me under her wing and introduced me to her posse, which grew to 10 people from 9 different countries. So typical for Brussels, which seems to be very global and transient (people often come for 1-2 years for internships with the EU or other related international organizations). We drank a lot of Beligium beer, at waffles, saw the pissing boy (and pissing girl) and listened to some live jazz. The night ended at Delirium, a must for anyone traveling through. Pear beer was delicious!

The next day we went to the Canadian Mission to the European Union. Canada is trying to negotiate a free trade agreement (CEDA) with the EU and it was so interesting hearing about the relationship between CAN and the EU from various perspectives. The top issues are 1) the Artic right of passage, 2) seal products, 3) oil sands, and 4) migration/visa access. Pretty amazing how politics and law merge with business through trade. The wheels were definitely turning after this stop.

The next stop was Paris and it was soo beautiful. Everywhere you looked there were amazing sculptures and picturesque features. We wandered around, ate fine food, drank on the Pont des Arts Bridge, went to the catacombs, strolled through the Luxemberg Palace gardens, went on a river boat cruise and saw the Eiffel Tower shine in all its glory. The highlight was getting on the guest list for a very stylish club which is situated under the Pont Alexandre bridge... we ain't in Alberta anymore ;) You need at least a week in Paris really get a feel and 4 days was enough to show me that I must come back.
Now that I've covered the 'play', I'll mention the 'work'. We visited White and Case LLP, one of the biggest arbitration law firms in the world. The next day we went to the OECD and had some extremely interesting presentation about the role of the OECD and it's most successful project so far Anti-Corruption. We also stopped by the International Court of Arbitration before heading onto Geneva.

In Geneva we met up with the other half of our class, who are taking Public International Law and had spent time in the Hague. Geneva lived up to it's reputation as extremely expensive (apparently Big Macs are 15 Swiss Francs... which is almost on par with the Canadian Dollar). But it was very nice and laid back. We went to the Canadian Mission to the WTO and talked about the Doha Round, Most Favored Nation twists and investment issues. This was capped off with a cheese fondue and a late night filled with photoshoots. The perfect end to a week in fantasy land (if you're fantasy is kinda geeky like mine).

I'd love to talk more in depth about our actual presentations so hit me back with an email if you want more info.

Castle Life

2011-05-26T05:03:00.003+03:00

As we were driving back from London it dawned on me that I study at a castle. We drove through Battle (where the battle of Hastings occurred in 1066) and I swear I saw some of Robin Hood's men in the trees as we passed through farmer's fields and sheep grazing pastures.

Life at the castle is very swell. We are often interrupted by the peacock shrill (in full blast during spring/summer) but it is well worth it b/c we are able to study in the Elizabethan gardens and have lectures off of a staircase that was created for Queen Elizabeth I.

It's amazing how good reverting back to a 19-year-old lifestyle can be. Eating at a cafeteria with a full salad bar and rotating hot meals is incredible. Only having enough clothes to do laundry once every 2 weeks is impeccable. Not knowing anyone and making new friends is liberating and exciting. All this extra time to study seems to be whittled away with chatting with friends on the grass which is the life I would love to be a reality... I will guarantee to enjoy every minute of the next 4 weeks... as I'm now at the half way mark for castle life.

Tonight I just got back from Atlantis, which is the main club on a pier in Eastbourne (30 min away). Back to student night discounts and bad music fuelled by 18 year old birthdays and costume nights. I've really re-entered a twilight zone and am not complaining ;)

Sweet Sveeden (Stockholm)

2011-05-24T01:30:00.003+03:00

Just got back from an INCREDIBLE weekend in Stockholm - one of my new top destinations.

Monica (Dalhousie), AJ (Queens) and I (UofC) were a triplet of trouble and it was so refreshing traveling with new friends to new places. We stayed at Interhostel, which is close to the Central Train Station and was perfect. Decent prices, lockers, kitchen and within walking distance to everything.

Our first impression of Stockholm was clean and put together. Everyone is beautiful and well dressed, but not over the top- people just seem to take care of themselves so people watching was a joy. A favourite game was to call out the red pants - apparently if a sailor wears red pants it means he's sailed across the Atlantic... way cooler than the rationale that the high quota of red pants was just a fashion trend. The food was fabulous, and there seemed to be a love affair with delicious salads and fish. Just up my alley!

The south of Stockholm was where my heart was, with tons of vintage 2nd hand shops and bars that lean on the hippy/chill edge. The east end is very posh (yet beautiful), central is somewhere in the middle and the old town (an island between central and south) was classic and touristy.

We managed to spend most of our time simply walking around and taking it all in. The Royal Palace has a breathtaking Royal church inside, and we even saw the 'changing of the guard' ceremony. We did go to Vasa museum, which showcases a HUGE old battle boat that sank on its virgin voyage. The engineers made it too tall, so when they sailed out of the Stockholm harbor and fired the cannons, a gust of wind went through the gun ports and tipped the boat over. They left the gun ports open and by the time water started going in, it was game over for this beautifully decorated battleship. Such a same... the king was out of town (in battle), so even though people knew the boat wasn't seaworthy, no one had the power to stop it from going forward. One more illustration of a need for redistribution of power ;)

Fotografiska is also a must see museum - a very modern art gallery. The highlight of the trip was the nightlife, and an amazing wine, cheese and baguette picnic our first night out. There's something so classy about drinking wine in a park with goat cheese and red peppers ;) We were turned away from a few clubs on Sat night, as you either needed to be a regular or have reservations, but we ended up at Spybar which was amazing. Monica worked her magic and got us into the VIP room (within the 'most famous club in Stockholm'), which is something I won't forget anytime soon.

I'd recommend taking advantage of renting a bike for 3 days for only 125 SEK (to convert to Euros, divide by 10). To get hooked up, you go to the basement of the Central Train Station to the SL Office (on the metro level) and then you get a sweet bike to cruise around on for the weekend. Everything in Stockholm is within walking distance, but the canals can make for some long walk arounds if you don't have wheels (eg Fotografiska is just across the river from the Vasa museum but it takes 1 hour via walking or a 10 min boat ride). You can also go on the 'hop on hop off' boat for 100 SEK, but as we were low on funds we opted for the foot transportation instead ;)

The only mishap of the trip was thinking that our flight was at 3pm instead of the reality of 645pm, so we spent Sunday in the airport ;) Ryanair flies into Skavska airport, which is 75 min outside of Stockholm and the bus takes you to central station for 199 SEK return. Stockholm is expensive (most meals are 100 SEK minimum and drinks range from 40-80 SEK each), but if you can get a deal on transportation in, this is a must see city. 9/10 for sure!

National Networking Internationally

2011-05-19T13:38:00.002+03:00

Last night we had a 'career day' at the castle, which brought in high profile individuals who practice international law in various capacities. A chance to rub elbows with people who have 'made it' and learn from their experiences - which really just illustrated that there is no direct path and that one has to know the right people and be open to take opportunities as they come up.

I find these career evenings interesting, as they are facilitate networking and provide a forum for questions. But how much of a connection can you really make, and how strong of a network can you develop over wine and cheese?

My real take away was a new appreciation for the privilege of being a solo representative of the UofC Law School. I came here with no friends or expectations and now have real connections with future movers and shakers across Canada. I now have new bonds with future Bay Street lawyers and high power bureaucrats, current JAG lawyers and ICC interns - people who will make a huge difference domestically and internationally in the years to come. These are the relationships that form a true network- which have been founded on independence. That's the hilarity of it all... the non-Queens misfits have formed our own clique. The irony of it all!

A crash course in Public International Law

2011-05-18T15:50:00.004+03:00

Monday marked day 14 and the final examination for a 2 week crash course in the wonders of PIL. Its amazing what effect 21 hours of lecture in one week will have on a person. In 'normal time', this material would cover 2 months. Somehow this 'law school on crack' experience brought me closer to my new friends and colleagues. You really feel like you know a person in 2 weeks when you eat, explore and go through exam stress together, regardless of only 'just meeting' them.

I was so grateful that I was able to learn about this entirely unique jurisdiction (the international legal order) while in a completely removed environment. At first I kept connecting lines between contract law or criminal law in Canada (a domestic legal order), but as the castle settled in, the strings started to get cut between DLO and ILO. By the end of the 2 weeks I felt like I had just started my 'minor in international law' - and now I'm continuing with International Economic Law while auditing International Commercial Arbitration and Mediation. This foreign jurisdiction is tempting me...

Lovely London

2011-05-09T23:26:00.002+03:00

After 1 week of peace at the Castle, we ventured into London for a weekend of fun and excitement! Greeted by the typical drizzle associated with London, we headed to Tate Modern for our art fix. Although I had seen the Miro and Al Weiwei exhibits just one week prior, there was more to be seen and appreciated- including Monet's Waterlillies (one of my favorites) and a few of Picasso's pieces as well!
The next stop was Shakespeare's Globe Theatre to watch Hamlet. The cast was phenomenal and with sunny skies, standing as a peasant was definitely worth it. A pigeon would swoop down every half hour or so, and you could hear its wings echo through the theatre - amazing!
From there on the day gets a bit more hazy, as an old friend who now lives in London toured us around the pubs of London. A pint per pub (with a few pitchers of Pimms) made for quite the adventure that lead into an epic evening out on the town! I was extremely impressed with how friendly everyone was and had an incredible time.
We made it to the British Museum on Sunday and I finally saw the true Egyptian wonders - the exhibit in London is far more impressive than the museum in Cairo. Another highlight was looking at the Greek marble statutes/wall carvings and of course... the Rosetta Stone.
We made sure to enjoy one last 'Pimms o'clock' accompanied by fish and chips before missing our train home! Oh the joys of travelling... luckily our tickets permitted us on the next train which swept us back to the realities of learning in a castle. Not too shabby of a weekend I'd say ;)

A Queen's experience in the UK

2011-05-02T00:21:00.002+03:00

Maybe history is in the air on this side of the pond, b/c it's only been 4 days but it feels like I've been here for weeks (in a good way).

I landed in London on Thursday and toured the city via the tube with a friend I met in India. He took me to Buckingham Palace, fine vegetarian dining in Notting Hill, looking at the Eye with a view of Big Ben and the British Parliament, touring through the Tate Museum (with a great exhibit on Miro and showcasing Ai Weiwei's 'sunflower seeds'), into the East side to check out a few art show openings and finishing off with a beer at a pub. Not bad for a jetlegged first day!

By Friday morning (Royal Wedding Day) I was on my way to the Castle, which is 2 hours south of London in the area of Sussex and about a hour away from Brighten (the posh vacation spot for a lot of Brits). The estate is gorgeous, including a real castle (circa 1441) with a moat, a three tiered garden, peacocks, carriages, a chapel, etc. etc. I feel like I'm at Hogwarts! We study in the castle (which also houses 3 ghosts, including the headless drummer) and sleep in 'Bader Hall' = rez. It's strange having a roommate and sharing a bathroom, weird eating at a cafeteria at set times and awkward walking into a group that has a few high school cliques, but the pros FAR outweigh the cons and life here has been pretty sweet. I've bonded with the 2 Masters students who are amazing and have crazy stories. One girl is a lawyer for the Special Services Unit (of the Airforce) and just got back from Afghanistan, so talking about International Criminal Law has a very real feel. The other girl is a Canadian/Columbian who is interning at the ICC later this year. I don't know how I managed to land these two as my 'core friends', but I'm loving the convos so far.

Today we went on a tour of the area and saw the 7 sister cliffs (which look just like the cliffs of Dover), Pevensey Castle (an old ruins castle circa 250), and went into Brighten. There's lots to see and do in Brighten, which is on the sea with a pier, has amazing shops and artictecture... but me and my 'core friends' ended up spending most of the afternoon in a pub eating fish and chips and drinking beer. So wonderful.

Tomorrow classes start. The first course (Public International Law) is compressed into 2 weeks so I hope my plan to study hard during the week and explore during the weekends pans out!

Hand up :) Hand out :(

2011-03-13T20:37:00.002+02:00

The latest Bridges blog post.
The next Bridges event in on March 16th called "Youth: The New Engines of Change".
There's also an "Unveiling Youth Potential" workshop coming up on April 2 & 3. Contact me for more info.

Bridges blog post- Breaking Down Barriers

2011-02-08T00:28:00.001+02:00

I've got more posts surround the theme of Breaking Down Barriers. Check it!

Part I

Part II

Bridges blog posts - gender equity

2011-02-08T00:27:00.001+02:00

Check out my new post!
What does it really mean?

The perfect man and the perfect woman. Does your laundry list look different?

2011-01-24T01:28:00.002+02:00

I was so excited to move to the Middle East. I was armed with gender and religious stereotypes and ready to battle them to the death. I suspected that people simply lived by a different set of norms, and those norms shaped the society.

The more I was integrated into Jordanian culture, the more I saw how gender differences are prevalent. I started to appreciate gender differences, and started to recognize that gender equality is imperative, but it doesn’t need to be accomplished by a 50/50 split. If the unit needs to eat supper, equality doesn’t mean each partner doing half of the preparation, half of the eating and half of the cleaning. Equality means each person contributing in the way that best suits their skills and the unit’s needs. Equality means the partner who has the time and skills to cook should cook, both should share and eat together, and the other partner should clean. Once I started to view relationships as balancing the whole, the light went on.

I encourage you to read the following two articles. The perfect man and the perfect woman, as described by local Amman Jordanians. As you read the articles, think about the differences between cultures. Think about your culture two generations ago. Think about the Western society, and how it developed. Think about what gender equality means to you. Think about your perfect man/woman.

_________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
A Personal Ad

March 17, 2010
Looking for love in Amman? So is everyone else. Please consider the following carefully, and reply only if fully qualified.

Words by alma khasawnih.

I am a single brown female living in Amman. I am between the ages of 27 and 38; between 148 and 169 cm tall, and weigh somewhere between 45 and 75 kg.

I am looking for a romantic man between 25 and 41 years old; someone well-educated, with a sense of humor, a nice smile and a kind heart, who does not smoke in elevators.

He must be clean, open-minded and liberal, and come from a similarly cultured background. I would like him to be kind to strangers, especially children and animals, and particularly polite to people working in the service industries, like domestic workers and car washers.

It’s important that he slow down for pedestrians, and not veer towards terrified animals on the road for the fun of it. He does not use the car as a macho exhibitionism tool.

He must be able to carry out a multi-layered, complex conversation in a format different from delivering a speech; also, every sentence must not begin: Did you know that? He must give others the chance to speak, including me.

He must listen to others, and to me. He must tolerate different opinions, and, God willing, he might even be capable of changing his mind every once in a while.

He doesn't forget to call back, and is never too busy to text a reply at least within a two-day period. He doesn't think a phone call is a marriage commitment.

He needs to be genuinely cool, as in: out of the closet about drinking, has female as well as male friends, and of various sexual orientations, has intimate relationships before marriage, travels and is creative. But he definitely doesn't treat women like a supermarket: a place where you can shop occasionally, buy a bar of chocolate and savor it, but never become a regular customer. I demand someone who understands why I'd think it was wrong if he treated me like a stop 'n' shop.

He must love women and respect them, and truly believe they're intelligent, beautiful and equal. He must never use premenstrual syndrome against them in an attempt to marginalize their feelings. He should certainly avoid pointing out the extra calories in a cheesecake during an anniversary dinner.

He doesn't feel guilty or ashamed about love and sexuality. He should care about a woman's pleasure and asks her what she likes. He shouldn't make her feel like a whore, while keeping himself above carnal evaluation. He believes in safe sex.

He doesn't find it emasculating if I pay for dinner, but will still hold the door open for me and accept that I might hold it for him, too.

In short, it seems, he's someone from a fairy tale, a knight in shining armor from a bedtime story, or possibly an alien from a far-away, green and eco-friendly planet. Are there any Internet sites for inter-cosmic dating?

Of course, you've probably gathered by now that this isn't all me. It's a mash-up from a collection of interviews with various women who live in Amman.

They didn't all mention all these characteristics in one man. Yet what they all expressed was that they wanted a local man who was capable of challenging the general social behavior of belittling women and treating them like second-class citizens. They all wanted a man who actually, truly, honestly loves and respects them.

I must admit, I worry about these women and myself. I wonder about a culture that covers women up, that doesn't give them equal rights within the law, like the right to pass on citizenship to their children, that sentences their murderers to a mere three weeks in jail under the guise of honor, that tells women in so many more ways than one that their only rightful place is the home. Can this culture ever create the men these women are looking for?

To find love, do we really have to leave?

_________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
By: Waseem Al Rousan

I read a note by Alma Khasawnieh about the perfect man and I admired it… yet I had to write my dream of my perfect woman:

I am single again, which means I’ve stopped searching for the perfect woman because I feel I’ve gotten as close as I’m going to get to that. And I am almost 34, which means my expectations are totally different than what they were when I was younger. Like most men, my standards for the perfect woman changed as I aged. They started off low around 16-18 when the perfect woman was basically any girl that had a pulse and would agree to go out regularly with me and accept holding hands.

That was the sheer quantity stage. I didn’t care if she looked like Angelina Jolie or Shafeeqah el Tull. The standards changed again in my late 20s when my game really started sharpening, I started making better money and I started to realize I was a prize. That was when I really started demanding more from women in the looks, personality and ambition departments. But after a lot of dating in the big city, you reach the point where I am now and your standards change from a laundry list of superficial features about hair, looks, height, etc. to just one simple overarching feature: respect the male ego, self-esteem and identity. I think more than anything this is the common thread in why a lot of relationships fail. This is more important than anything else to me now, because so few modern women know how to do this anymore, especially after progressive and radical feminism – its really done a number on their heads.

In random order, I believe the search for perfect love for most men would be as this:

A lady who wants to get married and is not messed up by feminism and convinced that being equal is to be trained to become a man with long hair, high heals and a vagina, while giving up a lot of the things that made her unique and strong as a women.

It is essential that she is lady who doesn't aim to duplicate the male gender. A lady who doesn't feel that if she tried to please her man like her mothers did, that she'd be selling her feminist principles and turning into her mothers (never that!!). A lady who isn’t going to churn out a new generation of feminized men, indoctrinated by the media and universities. These men are trained to never expect to have their male egos and male identities catered to, but to think that having a male ego and male identity at all was a source of shame in itself and was evil!

A lady who sees Sex and the City as fueling ladies delusions, not helping things out.

It is very important that she is a woman who grasps the ugly truth that respect and faith are more important to a man than love. And visualize the simple mathematics: If men had to choose between feeling

(a) loved yet disrespected and inadequate, or
(b) unloved but respected and competent,

a vast majority would choose choice (b). To me and other men, love without feelings of respect and adequacy from their partner is a more hellish fate than receiving no love at all. And if you don’t give me respect and a feeling of competence, I will seek that validation elsewhere. Not necessarily other women, (although that’s likely). It can be from a hobby, at the gym, watching tv, from sports, a speedy drive, writing reports, or from male friends that make me feel like I am a great guy. There are tons of places I may withdraw to when seeking the validation I lack from her. Which in turn may cause her to nag me for not paying enough attention to her. Which in turn may just drive me further into my alternative source of validation. And then we have a vicious cycle.

She won't be offended by calling her woman even if I am not joking (aren't you one after all?)

It is mandatory that she can wear the same dress twice (at least once in lifetime) for another wedding party of her cousins as not to consider it the end of world and biggest shame of all!!

A woman who doesn't feel that choosing to stay at home and be a housewife means she was a pariah. Cooking for a man or doing housework became a form of oppressive servitude. When did we reach the point where catering to and building up the male ego became the same as devaluing her worth as a woman?

A woman who doesn't see building up a man's ego as an admission of weakness and subordination

A woman who realizes that men view things differently than women, and those differences in views are equally valid and worthy of respect. Not trying to turn her man into a woman, and not to chastise him for not thinking or emoting or talking things to death. Men are not inclined to talk in circles about every problem until they’re emotionally drained

A lady who respects and supports my ambitions, my need to conquer, my need to hunt to compete. A real man would rather try his best and fail than never try at all.

She is demanding to be extremely open minded.

A lady who would listen to me telling her what’s wrong with our relationship over her bitter single friends who are telling her something different is wrong with our relationship.

She must not see being conservative and religious means atavistic and retardation.

She must have a high respect for social and moral values, and not to criticize the Mosque's Imam for not being open minded to Buddhism!!!

She won't consider wedding preparations more important and valuable than marriage itself, and she won't consider a honeymoon as a perfect chance for shopping!!!

A lady who won't Fuxx my brains out. Self-explanatory.

She won't let her looks go. Call it shallow, but we are programmed by nature to be visual creatures, we can't help it. Just because she is not biologically and culturally programmed to value looks as much as we do doesn’t mean she should dismiss men’s preoccupation with looks as shallow and stupid,

She surely show appreciation for what a man contributes as a provider and be understanding of a man’s depression when he feels like he comes up short in this area. Being a provider is at the core of a man’s identity, even if you make money too.

Be an interesting person. Have hobbies (shopping doesn’t count). Has topics she likes to read about. Be able to converse on a wide range of things. Has well thought out viewpoints. Travels and has experiences. And she doesn’t talk for the sake of talking when there is nothing else to do.

And there you have it. My perfect woman. And the perfect woman for a lot of men out there I suspect.

Happy Mothers day for you Um Waseem - my prefect woman.

Bridges Aboriginal Youth Empowerment Event

2010-11-19T20:52:00.002+02:00

At the beginning of the month I attended the Bridges event for Aboriginal Youth Leadership. The blog can be found here:
http://canadabridges.com/blog/aboriginal-youth-look-forward-to-bright-futures/

I was so impressed with the high caliber speakers and it really illustrated the power people have if they take their future into their hands, with the support of their community.

What do you see?

2010-11-01T02:59:00.003+02:00

I'm now blogging for Bridges and I'll be posting all of my blogs here too!

Bridges is an incredible NGO that was founded in Calgary. They are all about empowering people, and use that model in 2 arenas. First, they take professionals overseas (usually Yemen, now India too!) to train professionals. So instead of a doctor treating patients for 2 weeks while aboard, that doctor is training other doctors how to better treat their patients. Locally the focus is on Youth Social Entrepreneurship. They use a mentor program and hold youth workshops. I believe in this organization whole-heartedly.

Here's a link to my first blog about gender stereotypes:
http://canadabridges.com/blog/womens-contribution/

India in a Nutshell

2010-08-05T09:15:00.000+03:00

Day 1-9 = Tourist Circuit (Mumbai --> Jodhpur --> Jaisalmer --> Delhi --> Agra)
Day 10-19 = Ashram and Peace (Rishekesh --> McLeod Ganj --> Amistar)
Day 20-25 = Pakistan (Lahore, Islamabad, Abbottabad )
Day 26-28 = Wrap-up (Lahore --> Amistar --> Delhi --> Mumbai)

I really enjoyed Northern India, as it was more calm and there was far less hassle. You didn't need to bargain for breakfast and the landscape was mountainous/beautiful. The touristy circuit was very draining, as you often travel by night train and then see many sites in one day before moving to the next location. It is possible to see a lot of India in a short timespan, but make sure you factor in the effects of heat and hassle!
My favorite place in India was McLeod Ganj... because it felt like a break from India! As the Daila Lama resides here, there is a very 'Tibetan' feel with a cooler mountain environment and no need to negotiate prices. Mumbai was a great metropolitan city, Delhi was exhausting, the Golden Temple in Amistar is a must, and doing one city in Rajistan (either Jodhpur, Jaisalmer or Jaipur) is worth your time. The Taj Mahal in Agra is best viewed with a loved one and the I suggest doing a 7 day course at an ashrams in Rishekesh.
From what I've heard, Leh is amazing- it's remote and feels like authentic Tibet. Varinashi is said to be a rough city- challenging due to the heat, the people and the bustle. Goa used to be a major beach town, and seems to be on the downswing.

If you have any friends in Pakistan, going there is incredible. To avoid 5 days in Delhi and area, get your visa beforehand. I wouldn't travel to Pakistan on my own, as speaking the Ordu (similar to Hindu with an arabic alphabet) is a must and locals have a better pulse on the current situation. That being said, I was able to travel on my own for a small trip and three single girls were able to go North of Islamabad without any major hassles.

Pakistan at its finest

2010-08-01T09:32:00.001+03:00

I love Pakistan. It was an incredible end to a 10 month journey, filling my soul with insight.

My words are biased because my amazing experience was due to my friends, Nimra and Meg. I also had a number of obstacles to overcome before I could come to Pakistan, elevating my pride's need to proclaim the 'risky' visit a raging success.

The trip was the perfect mix of tourism and lounging around. When I look back on the 5 days, I remember conversations about religion, relationships, family and personal development mixed in with breathtaking scenery, and a traditional/modern culture. Everywhere I looked I was reminded both of the Middle East and of India. I felt comfortable.

I would strongly recommend others come and visit Pakistan, and I'm sure that I'll go again, but I think it's best to travel with a local or someone who speaks Ordu fluently. You don't want to get caught in a sketchy situation and not be able to understand what's going on. Some people speak English, but most rickshaw drivers don't so it can be difficult to see the country on a budget without a native speaker.

Pakistan is one of the most biodiverse countries in the world, and the small sample I saw was beautiful. The problem is that not everything is accessible, and knowing what is safe and isn't is sometimes difficult to gauge. We went to Thandyani, the same place Kurt and Nimra went for their honeymoon one month ago, and it was a magically beautiful place. But on the way home we were stopped in traffic for 1 hour due to a protest/roadblock. The NWFP recently changed its name to Khyber Pakhtoonkhwa and the Hazaras aren't included in the new name. Internal politics made my pulse rise. That's that hard reality in Pakistan. Everyone lives with uncertainty that's slightly more 'in your face' than it is at home. That being said, Nimra had never experienced this type of inconvenience/violence before.

I was really surprised at Pakistan's infrastructure and organization. I thought Pakistan would be just like India with a little but of Islam mixed in, but the country felt more like the Middle East. And everyone loves Pakistani food because it has the spice and flavor of Indian cuisine, but the added bonus of copious amounts of meat! Streets were clean and people didn't honk as much. There still are slums, but somehow they seem organized. In Lahore, the markets have open space and any type of food is available (including sushi). Lahore is also the cultural capital, with a good museum and the Bad Shahid Mosque in the old city, both worth visiting. I also went to Islamabad twice, but only for visa purposes, so I didn't see a lot. The embassy area is high security the city seems spread out... it reminded me of Calgary! I really think I saw some Pakistani gems and I missed all the blemishes.

Travel/Tourism Thoughts
I'm still uncertain how safe/unsafe traveling alone as a female is. Locals have mixed feelings about the topic, but the people surveyed are from affluent families who travel by private means. I went from Lahore to Islamabad and back by myself, departing at 2am and returning at 8pm. There were no problems whatsoever, but most of my time was spent in transit (on buses, in taxis, etc.) I never felt unsafe in Lahore, and the people who stare just look curious, not creepy. I would recommend wearing the local traditional dress. Even though some people have adopted t-shirts and jeans, most people on the street wear traditional clothes, from both sexes.
Obviously, the tourism sector isn't as developed (I only saw one other visible tourist while there), and as we had our own personal, local friend who acted like our guide, I'm not sure how easy it is to navigate through the country. Buses or trains connect most major centers (there are buses every hour from Lahore to Islamabad, for instance), and when you can't go any further, hiring a taxi is always a reasonable option. When we went from Islamabad to Abbottabad, the taxi only cost 3500 rps, roughly the same cost that a bus would have cost but much more comfortable and flexible.
As for accommodations, I'm not sure what is readily available.

India to Pakistan and back (a guide for visas and land border crossings)

2010-07-31T09:05:00.002+03:00

Pakistan Visa application in India (Delhi)
Day 1 = submit your application to the Pakistan embassy in Delhi 2/50G Shantipath, Chanakyapuri, New Delhi, 8:30-11:30am)
-Pick up an application form from window 5 at the Pakistan embassy
-Have a typist (who waits 10m away from window 5 at the embassy) fill out the application
-The typist will attach 2 passport photos
-Obtain a letter from your embassy (which can be done in half hour paying $50 to your embassy In India)
-Pay 3700rp to the Standard Chartered Bank in Malcha Marg Branch (5 minutes from the embassy), and attach the receipt to your application
-Submit the form... you will then need to return in 3 days for your first interview.
Day 2 = Interview
The interview only lasts a few minutes, but sometimes you have to wait for a few hours before you're seen. I arrived at the embassy at 8:20 and left at 12:30. Return the next day for your visa.
Day 3 = Pick up your visa from window 5 at 8:30

Costs
50 rps = typist fee
2150 rps = Canadian embassy letter fee
3700 rps = Visa fee
260 rps = misc. costs (transportation, photocopy, etc.)
$137

India to Pakistan land border crossing
This was the friendliest and easiest border crossing in my life! People were eager to help, laughed with me, offered me tea and I didn't deal with any line ups. Perhaps the border guards were just bored, but the experience was very easy going.
From Amistar you can catch a bus to Atari from platform 17 at the bus stand (18 rps). The bus will take about 1.5 hours (as it is a local bus with many stops along the way). You then take a cycle rickshaw to the border (20 rps) and can change money at a bank where there restaurants are before the gate (they give you a great rate).
From the Pakistan border to Lahore you can catch an autorickshaw or taxi. I waited until a taxi dropped off a passenger, and was able to negotiate a trip to Lahore for 300 rps (as he would have gone back empty otherwise).
The whole process was a breeze.

Pakistan to India border crossing
Remember the time zone difference. Because India is 1/2 hour ahead of Pakistan, the Pakistan border closes at 3:30pm PK local time (4pm Indian local time). Crossing back was the same as the first crossing. Guards still were joking around with me, inviting me behind the counter to use the fan, and making the whole process enjoyable. Both sides were very kind and helpful.

Obtaining an Indian Visa in Pakistan (Islamabad)
Sector G-5 is home to most of the embassies in Pakistan, and as such is under high security. You can't take a taxi to the embassy, so you get dropped off at a shuttle service area. Here you are able to fill out visa application forms for any country, take passport photos, use the internet or print off any other documents required for visa applications. Its a one stop visa shop, with shuttle service too!
To get a tourist visa in Pakistan, you need 2 months for processing time. For a transit visa (with proof of departure from India), they can process the visa in 3-5 days. The cost is also significantly less.
It is also possible to obtain a visa from Lahore using Fed-Ex, but it depends on your urgency and level of comfort.

Costs (in Pakistani Rupees)
-500 rps = filling out the application form
-250 rps = 4 passport photos
-120 rps = using the internet and printing off 2 pages (my flight itinerary)
-200 rps = regular shuttle service (which I used, never waiting more than 10 minutes) (x3)
(500 rps = executive shuttle service - no more than a 5 minute wait with internet access, etc. included)
-2200 rps = 7 day transit visa fee
(5000 rps for tourist visa)
-400 rps = transportation from bus station to embassy (x4)
-850 rps = transportation from Lahore to Islamabad (x2)
$82

Ashram-lite

2010-07-22T06:24:00.002+03:00

My quest for inner peace wasn't meant to be found this trip. I reserved a spot at Parmath Niketan Ashram, as recommended by a Calgarian yogi friend, but they don't offer yoga on the weekends and it seems best to do a course if staying with them. I then wandered down to Sri Ved Niketan Ashram, which is a total dive but includes morning yoga and afternoon meditation with the price of a room (150 rp)... so I stayed there for 5 days. I supplemented the morning hatha yoga with 4 hours of yoga philosophy, mantras, yoga and massage with Dada- my Himalayan Yogi (Swami Jayantananda Sarawati).
I was trying to create an ashram environment without an all-inclusive ashram, so I also tried not to read, write, listen to music, use the internet, etc. for the few days I was in Rishikesh. But this too was too much for me and I cracked on day 4. My mind kept wandering towards home (I haven't been there for 10 months so I started making 'to do' lists in my head), or towards chakras associated with poses, or towards this blog post. Without external expression, my mind was stressing out!

If I were to do it again, I'd arrive on a Monday and do a 7 day course with Sri Sant Seva Ashram, or select another ashram in the area and come for a course with them. The courses include accommodation, all meals, yoga lectures, morning and evening yoga classes and meditation. If you're not in a course, each yoga class costs approximately 200 rp, and a single room is usually 150 rp.
Don't stay at Sri Ved Niketan unless you absolutely have to. There are cobwebs in the ceiling, you share your room with giant ants, there's caked on dust/dirt everywhere and it's easily the grossest place I've stayed at (and I know cheap dives). The yoga in the morning was great and other guests like the flexibility of this place.
Dada was a great yogi... relaxed and willing to laugh. He is also a baba (master) in meditation, his home is right on the Ganga the yoga room accommodates 3 people max; I only shared 2 of my 14 hours with others. 1500 rp for 7 courses (negotiable). himalayan.yogi@gmail.com

The Good, The Bad and The Ugly

2010-07-15T10:03:00.000+03:00

Good
Trains are sweet. Fast. Comfortable. And night travel is safe and saves you money on accommodations.
The religious mix is so harmonious. Some people worship at both Hindu and Buddhist temples, and Christians aren't separated into denominations. As long as you respect one another- it's all good.
People for the most part have been genuinely helpful, even if I'm just asking for directions on the street.
People give away food for free! (they even refused my money- it was around noon beside a temple in Delhi)
A cab driver drove me around (lost) for 1 1/2 hours in the rain, asking for directions 5 times and charging me less than the regular fare.
The Delhi metro station is so modern with a token system for location specific fares.
There's free drinking water all over the place for locals! And bottled water is cheap.
The food is amazing. All of it. And street eats are cheap- I haven't even gotten sick (yet!)

Bad
Tour agencies that claim to be 'Incredible India' (govt. agency) and end up overcharging you for a simple task.
India is a lot more expensive than I thought (easily $400/week)
You get overcharged EVERYWHERE. You always need to bargain to only get overcharged slightly. It's rare to get the local rate.
Monsoon weather. Sweaty (hot + humid) can change to terrential downpour in seconds.
It's easy to wash your hands anywhere (with water that often gets foreigners sick), but it's hard to find hand sanitizer!

Ugly
Seeing a 50 year old man in a business suit urinate at a busy intersection in downtown New Delhi
Watching boys wash in sewar water.
Jain 'priests' scamming you on temple tours.

Funny
The India headbob. It moves from left to right, kinda like a bobble head. It can mean 'yes', 'no' or 'maybe' and is used frequently.

Week 1 : Touristy India (Mumbai --> Jodhpur --> Jaisalmer --> Delhi --> Agra (day trip) )

2010-07-15T09:56:00.003+03:00

Cliffnotes:
Mumbai- Amazing metropolitan city with monsoon weather! There is a lot to see and people aren't too pushy. It was an easy introduction to India with Bollywood, ocean views and any resource you would want.
Jodhpur- The blue city with great views from the fort and interesting architecture inside. The people were very friendly and it was a relaxed atmosphere.
Jaisalmer- A large 'living' fort- easy to navigate through with views of the adobe architecture city with dessert all around.
Delhi - Oh Delhi! This city has so much to offer but can easily get travelers frustrated and cheated.
Agra- Taj Mahal is an incredible site indeed, but the city isn't worth a sleepover.

This whorlwind travel week was draining. I saw 5 cities in 8 days and spent 48 hours in trains and countless more in rickshaws and taxis. There are so many temples, forts, mosques and tombs to see- picking and choosing the 'best' is better than seeing the major sites at each city. Rajistan (Jaisalmer & Jodhpur) were chill places with cheap souviners and helpful people. Delhi and Agra were the exact opposite- with pushy people who always want more money which can be stressful. Now I'm off to an ashram for a week in Rikeshesh.

Day 1- (July 7th) Mumbai
I had an incredible introduction to India in Mumbai. I wasn't planning on doing much, and instead I ended up seeing most of the city and experiencing monsoon weather first hand! My plane arrived at 5am so I used the early morning to run errands (like internet, buying a new SIM, laundry, etc.) and I ended up meeting Himanshu, who offered to show me around the city. I brought a friend from the hostel with me and we saw sooo much. Thanks to the new local friend, I saw 9 Lonely Planet 'sites' in just 4 hours... a feat they allocate 2 days to see! The best part was seeing 4 different religious sites one after the other. Hji Ali Mosque (Islamic- which is in the middle of the bay with a causeway that reaches out), Mahalaxmi Temple (Hindu), a Buddhist Temple and a Catholic church built in 1904. The mosque was very, very different from mosques I've seen in the Middle East, and the Mahalaxmi Temple used Disneyland style iron gates to navigate the lines of human praying to the Gods. The day was finished seaside in a district where Bollywood stars reside when the rains hit in full force. Despite my newly purchased umbrella, we all got drenched in 2 minutes. Locals seemed to just take the monsoon in stride, accepting the warm water and not rushing to their next location.
Logistics:
Salvation Army Red Shield House = 225 rp with breakfast in dorm room
Taxi to Colabra from airport = 450 rp (fixed rate)
Laundry = 15 rp per piece (but you may bargain cheaper)
SIM card = 50 rp (Air Tel)
Internet = 30-50 rp per hour
Make sure the taxi uses the meter, and then uses a chart to see how much to charge. Colaba to Churchgate Train Station is 20 rp.

Day 2- Mumbai --> Jodhpur
Travel day! The biggest excitement was rushing from Colaba to the Bansha Terminal to catch my train! My laundry, set to be done at 9am was still MIA at 11:45. The rains meant there was a lot of laundry being done, and it took hours to sort through the clothes to find my 11 pieces. Traveling through a 10 million person city also takes time; a taxi to Churchgate Station, a train to Bandra Station, a tuktuk to Bandra Terminal and then a sprint to the my train car (at the opposite end of the platform)! Once inside it was easy living, as I was traveling AC class. The people sharing my compartment were all on a Jain pilgrimage and were so hospitable. They shared their food with me, told me about their religion, and treated me like their guest (instead of random stranger who sat beside them).
Logistics:
The train from Mumbai to Jodhpur takes 16 hrs leaving at 1:30pm. AC class = 909 rp
To reserve tickets go to CST, 1st floor of the Reservations Office Building, counter 52. It's reserved for foreign travelers and the gentleman was very helpful.

Day 3- Jodhpur; Jodhpur --> Jaisalmer
From 6am to 11pm I was wandering through the city of Jodhpur. The weather was hot with no rain :) It was incredible watching the city 'wake-up' as I walked along children going to school, men cooking and shops opening for business. I wandered into Buddhist and Hindu temples, watching people make their offerings for the day. Eventually the buildings got bluer and bluer- signaling I was in the heart of the city and close to the fort! I found a perfect wireless connection (see below) and then wandered through the fort. Without an audio guide, I didn't understand a lot of the significance, but it was still an impressive fort to see- from inside and outside. I walked to the Jaswant Thada, a white palace which was so/so, but sleeping on grass under the shade of a tree was ideal ;) Then I wandered into the market by the clock tower and made some great friends. In particular check out the MM Spices (right side of the clock tower). Abdul taught me all about different spices and how they can cure different alignments, poured me 4 cups of tea and was a great local connection. I also went to the an Art School, where I got a peacock and elephant painted on a lentil! The full day came to a close on my Sleeper train (2nd class) to Jaisalmer... a very dusty and sweaty ride. Saving the money wasn't worth the discomfort.
Logistics:
The train from Jodhpur to Jaisalmer takes 6 hours leaving at 11pm. SL class = 120 rp
Cozy Hostel has unlimited WIRELESS internet for 20 rp! They also let me hang my wet clothes (from Mumbai) on their balcony.
You can store your bag at the Train Station cloak room for 10 rp. I did and nothing went missing.

Day 4- Jaisalmer; Jaisalmer --> Delhi
From 5am to 4pm I was in Jaisalmer. After a much needed shower, I slept for few hours and then went through the fort for a few hours. We were toured through the Jain temples and having a guide was an excellent way to better understand the relgion. We were also invited into a Haveli (an old house with specific architecture), which was rustic and unique. The day was nice and relaxing. The views into the dessert with the adobe architecture brought back memories of Jordan! Again- people here were genuinely helpful and not too pushy. Seeing the men in massive turbans was neat too. Everything was very cheap in Jaisalmer... Bada pants can be bought for 100 rp starting price! There are beautiful textiles here - I just wish it wasn't the beginning of my trip :( The highlight of the day was getting my palm read and then henna done. A lady within the fort truly has the gift, and I look forward to my fortune coming true :) By 4pm I was back on a train, watching dessert pass by and saying goodbye to Rajistan.
Logistics
The train from Jaisalmer takes 19hrs, leaving at 4pm. AC class = 873 rp
There are numerous hotels that will pick you up from the train station at 5am for free and charge you less than 100 rp for a room for the day with a bathroom inside. Just don't stay in the fort (as overpopulation is straining the infrastructure and ruining the fort).
Rikshaws shouldn't be more than 30rp anywhere within the city.
If booking a train ticket, the booking office opens at 8am

Day 5- Delhi
I'm stayed with friends of a friend in Gurgaon (a business city just outside of Delhi) so a good part of the day was figuring out how to get there. Once I arrived at Alexandra's flat (a gorgeous flat indeed), I relaxed throughout the afternoon- catching up on photo uploads/downloads. We watched the World Cup final that night at a local hotel.
Logistics:
The metro is great, cheap and connects with major train and bus terminals.

Day 6- Delhi
The morning was dedicated to figuring out Pakistani visa logistics. I then attempted to visit Old Delhi, but alas, the Red Fort is closed on Monday, so I had opted to eat some street food and wander towards the metro. My next stop was Connaught Place, supposedly a beautiful New Delhi location, but due to the Commonwealth Games in October, the whole place (like most of New Delhi) was under construction. By this point I was tired (only 3 hours of sleep), sweaty (its 33*+ outside and humid) and I trying to figure out the rest of my time in India... so I cautiously entered a Tourist Agency. Big mistake! I was careful to only go to 'Incredible India' (the govt agency) shops, but I was still told trains were full when they weren't, as they tried to upsell me into private cars and package deals. Other travelers swear by "Incredible India", and I think if you're short on time and have the cash they can put some incredible packages together saving you A LOT of hassle. I did score a sweet map of Delhi, and I walked to Jantar Mantar- a crazy large scale sundial. Then I walked to Sansad Bvn (Parliament), but I was told I needed a letter from my embassy to enter :( I next walked to the India Gate, watched some cricket and started my trip back to Gorgaon. Mid-trip, monsoon rains hit and my rickshaw broke down. I then took 2 more taxis, got lost along the way, and ended up back at my friends house 3 hours later. Definitely not the best of days, but there were a few shining moments mixed in to make things okay.

Day 7- Delhi; Delhi --> Agra
Today I had an incredible driver (Singh www.indiatravelexperiences.com) who toured me around Delhi in comfort. The first stop was the Lotus Temple (a Bahai temple... really beautiful) and then ISKCON Temple- a Vedic Expo Indians come on tour buses to see. It was a really weird experience actually... a video, model and light show talking about Krishna's (Hindu) teachings with a big yoga element mixed in. Then we went to Humayu Tomb (an older and red version of the Taj Mahal), and then up to Raj Ghat (where Gandi's ashes are). The last stop was Bairla Mandir (temple), a beautiful and large temple with a garden in the back. Normally you can see more in a day, but there were construction delays and a 5:40 train to Agra. Don't take the Intercity train to Agra unless you want delays and a 5 hour journey!
Logistics:
The Intercity train leaves at 5:40 and is supposed to be 4 hours.

Day 8- Agra; Agra --> Delhi
I woke up for the sunrise... which actually meant waiting for the sun to rise over the smog cloud. A bit of a let down, but it was nice being on the Taj Mahal grounds before the crowds. The Taj Mahal was indeed spectacular, full of detain up close and beautiful from afar. But I wouldn't recommend going solo. It's the kind of experience you want to share with someone. I didn't feel like going to the Agra Fort (said to be quite impressive), so I just had a cycle rickshaw and went through markets and visited shops where he could get a commission. He even took me to his home in the slums and I took pictures of everyone in the neighborhood! I thought I'd try my hand at a Taj Mahal sunset view from across the river, but alas, the smog just made a haze with no sun in sight. All in all, Agra was a null day.
Logistics:
Accommodation- Shanti Lodge (200rp for single bed with bathroom)- great rooftop view of the Taj Mahal. It also has lockers for your bags (provide your own lock) if you travel by train the same day as checking out.
You can hire a rickshaw for 200rp for the day and see the main sights, but be prepared to stop at shops where they will earn a commission.

Lessons:
Ask for laundry a day before you need it to avoid last minute searching.
Traveling through the night saves on accommodation costs... but splurge for the AC option if you want to avoid getting dusty, sweaty and a night slept with one-eye open.
Don't take a rishshaw in the rain... sometimes they break down or will simply stop until the rain stops
Staying with friends outside of the city may end up costing you more
Every tour company claims to be 'Incredible India' (govt run). Ask for a 2nd opinion when trains are said to be fully booked.
Don't use travel agencies for small trips. Either book your entire trip through 'Incredible India' to save yourself hassle and time, or book your trip on your own as you go.
The West Gate for the Taj Mahal opens early; the South Gate (close to the hotels) opens at 8am.

My take on East African Tourism

2010-07-09T07:44:00.001+03:00

I was in Africa for 80 days and I was able to see 3 countries. Kenya, with my home in Nairobi, definitely ranks #1 in my opinion of where to go. It challenges Tanzania on every front, with less touristic and cheaper options. Zanzibar vs. Lamu for coastal island beauty with an Arabic flair. Serrengeti vs. Maasi Mara for safaris. Mt. Kiliminjaro vs. Mt Kenya for hiking challenges at extreme altitudes. They even both share Lake Victoria! A friend who went through both countries vouches for Tanzania as it's set up for tourism. Both seem to have it all!
Uganda was wonderful but a bit more expensive than Kenya. The south looks like what you would imagine Rwanda looks like- with forested rolling hills and gorillas. It also has safaris with a different mix of animals than Tanzania or Kenya and Kampala is definitely more relaxed/safer than Nairobi.
Rwanda obviously stands out for the genocide memorials. It had more terraced farmland than I expected, but I didn't see the national parks. I imagine it's very comparable to Uganda. Currently there is a lot of French and the mother language, but slowly English is coming with the younger generation.
Ethopia is a country I've never been to (outside of the airport at Addis) but many friends have talked about how wonderful it is. From what I can tell, it's unlike the other East African countries with its own food, arts and culture. Even the landscape is supposedly very different. It's also supposed to be cheap to see but like most African countries, the infrastructure makes it difficult to travel quickly.
As for the rest of East Africa... I have no comment!

Kenya key contacts

2010-07-07T07:33:00.002+03:00

Will Waramu
Email: will.wamaru@gmail.com
Website: http://seewilliamstravels.blogspot.com
mobile +254 751 816 121
Skype: will.wamaru
Will was the one to arrange the trip to Mt. Kenya, Maasi Mara and plan the itinerary for the trip to the North and the West (where less tourists go). He is also a good friend of me and has really worked hard to become successful 'champion of Mt. Kenya' that he is! He grew up in the Central Province (on the base of Mt. Kenya) and has contacts throughout the tourism industry in Kenya. A great friend to have on your side... and everything can be planned in a budget way!

Lake Turkana/Lodwar
Peter Ekatorot Longolei
Turkana Tour Association
peterlongolei@yahoo.com
+254 712 782 693
Peter was essential in the success of our trip to the North. He helped us arrange the trip to the springs, to the fishing village on the lake and to Kakuma (where UN refugee camps are). He is Turkan and negotiated with locals constantly on our behalf.

The Youth Congress - Kariobangi Ward, Kasarani Constituency, Nairobi
Raphael Obonyo
raphojuma@hotmail.com
+254 717 083 783
www.theyouthcongress.org
Raphael was my former boss and the convenyor/project manager for The Youth Congress. He's a diplomatic human rights activist and has studied/gives talks throughout the world (including a certificate in Edmonton!) He is the person to talk to about current difficulties youth face in impoverished areas in Nairobi and in Kenya in general. If he's not around, the other staff members, such as Stanley Ogola, were also founding members of this empowering youth organization.

Uganda and Rwanda Trip

2010-07-06T07:39:00.000+03:00

Day 1- Jinja whitewater rafting (taking the source of the white nile on in style!)
Amazing! Incredible! Definitely worth every penny ($125 including shuttle to and from Kampala/Jinja, breakfast, a snack on the river and a large afternoon BBQ with 2 drinks. The Nile beer tastes sooo good at the end of the day :)
I've been whitewater rafting before (on the Kickinghorse in BC, Canada) but this was much more intense. Our raft flipped 3 times, people fell out in the rapids and we even 'surfed a wave' like kayakers do! I sat in the front as we charged into three grade 5 rapids and helped paddle in the back over 'the waterfall'. Everyone definitely drank some nile water, but all were safe and had a blast.
Our guide was DeMartin- a moody chap who was a real challenge to crack but had an interesting story once I peeled back a few layers.
If you have time- definitely stay the night at the camp (which is on the first set of waterfalls). Very relaxing with a great vibe.
I went with Nile River Explorers

Day 2- Travel Day Kampala --> Buhoma
I literally was on the move from 5am to 7pm. The Perfect Coach bus (20 000 Ush) leaves when full (6am for me) and arrived in Kihihi around 3:30pm- with only 2 stops for 10 min! Once in Kihihi I took a truck which was heading to Butagota full of supplies and people (5000 Ush) and then a boda boda (motorcycle) took me to Buhoma.
The day was long but the journey was beautiful. The last 3 hours of the bus ride were the most breathtaking as you travel through a deep valley terraced into farmland. The road is very rough, but I felt honored because I was holding a curious 4 year old local girl who slept in my arms while we bumped along.
But the truck ride was the best! I opted to sit in the back of the truck with the locals- which isn't the safest option but was amazing. Seeing the sun set behind the rolling green hills while balancing on millet and maize made the locals laugh at the crazy muzungoo. And don't be worried if the boda boda takes a short cut off the road and on a walking path while going to Buhoma- it's safe... just more 'local'.
Staying at the Community Rest House wasn't the cheapest option, but is the simpliest. If I had arrived earlier (when there was still light), I would've eaten in the village and bought food for breakfast and lunch the next day. But as the sun had et- I compromised on $30 full board (3 meals and accommodations).

Day 3- Nkuringo Walking Safari Part I
We trekked from Buhoma to Nkuringo passing through the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest National Park (the same park where you can trek gorillas) up to the farming village of Nkuringo. My guide- Evarist- was great at spotting red tailed monkeys, blue tailed monkeys and the white and black collobus monkey amongst numerous birds. Walking through the jungle we even heard chimps (this forest has both chipms and gorllias- and when they fight the chimps win by outwitting the gorillas and beating them with sticks!) There is about an hour of uphill in the sun which is a nice change and you arrive into camp around 2pm. Around 5pm you walk to the top of the hill to vie (on a clear day): the 6 volcano cahin, the Congo/Uganda border, an the Queen Elizabeth Park and lake. Unfortunately, I had a hazy day...

Day 4- Nkuringo Walking Safari Part II
Traveling from Nkuringo to Kisoro includes 22km of walking and a 3 hour dugout canoe ride across Lake Mutanda!
The first 19 km was through rolling farmland, and it only took us 3 1/2 hours! It was terribly windy on the lake, so we took a siesta until it calmed down enough to paddle across (2 1/2 hours). The last 3km takes you right through rural villages, banana plantations and brings you into Kisoro in time for a sunset behind the 6 chain volcanos!

The Nkuringo Walking Safari is $129 which includes a guide for 2 days and full board accommodation in Nkuringo. YOu need to pay the park fee and ranger fee on top ($40) and for food and accommodation in Buhoma and Kisoro, plus transportation to and from. It turned out to be the most expensive expedition I've done- but it was an in depth look at the most beautiful part of Uganda with a knowledgeable Ugandan guide. This gave me full access to a reliable local source to understand cultural realities (like marriage ceremonies and other random facts).

Day 5- Lake Buynoni
I traveled from Kisoro --> Kabale, then walked the 8km to the lake, and took a dugout to Sharp's/Njuyera Island. The place is so beautiful and relaxing. Even though it's the start of the high season, I was the only person on the island (14 000 Ush for a single self contained room!) I went swimming (the lake is 900m deep!), read and relaxed. Late in the afternoon I visited the mainland village to drink the soygum porriage (slightly alcoholic/yeasty) and I was brough to the top of the hill for an amazing dusk view. The village is authentically rural, but no local goes hungry yet no one is rich. I felt like a celebrity there because I don't think adults or children see muzungoo's that often!

Day 6- --> Kigali
On the journey to Kigali I took 4 forms of transport. Dugout, boda boda, shared car taxi and matatu! On the way to the border I met Ivan, a student at KIST in Kigali who is originally from Uganda. He's a smart, objective and helpful guy who ended up showing me around Kigali. The city reminds me of Beiruit a lot- one story buildings scattered throughout the hills in a sprawling style with some old bullet holes mixed in. I saw slums (in better shape than Kampala or Nairobi) and the land being 'reformed' (old slums bought by the government, demolished, and sold to investors). I saw the old Belgium barricks with bullet holes and broken windows left to remind everyone of the genocide. New developments were pointed out and it was amazing being able to talk to a knowledgeable and objective Ugandan who has Rwandan family (some were even freedom fighters).
The stories I read about a changing society aren't so rosey when you ask people on the ground. Rwandans are trying to make a better, united future- but we mustn't food ourselves to think that years of indoctorined hatred can be forgotten and forgiven in just 16 years. And it's important that the society isn't trying to forget what happend- that's why there are so many buildings left untouched as daily reminders. People need to acknowledge what happened and move forward. Rwanda is the rising star of East Africa. But foreign investments and a rebulit city doesn't mean that intermarriage is now common.

Day 7- Kigali
WIthdrawing money in Kigali can be a challenge- especially if you have a Mastercard. To make matters worse, I arrived on a Sunday when banks were closed, and the Monday was a public holiday! Luckily- I had some USD and I just scraped by :)
Due to the holiday, the Genocide Memorial Center was closed, so we (Dana and I) traveled south to the church memorials at Nyamata and Ntarama. They were both very powerful with soiled clothes, skulls and blood stains marking the mass murders which took place under God's roof. I find it difficult to write about.
We then were to the Hotel of 1000 Hills (which 'Hotel Rwanda' was based on).
It's mind blowing being at places where just 16 years ago neighbors killed one another. The people we pass on the street, who run businesses or well us a soda could have played a role in it- on either side. Everyone we see was likely effected by the genocide. It's heavy being here.

Uganda in General
I found it hard to travel on a tight budget in UG. Everything that's fun has a big price tag and people in tourism are quick to direct you to other pricey add ons. I felt constantly nickled and dimed. Private cards were arranged for me to save me the hassle of public transit (which sometimes didn't exist or was hard to come by). Guest houses were booked for me to keep me 'safe'. Nothing was ridiculously priced, but it was a step above my target zone. And kids constantly say 'how are you, give me money'.
I wish I had time to see more of Kampala and time to go to Ssese Islands.

Rwanda in General
I was only there for 2 days and 1 night, so I missed out on Kibye (lake beach with a Friday market) and the Gikongoro Memrials (were corpses lay in their original place). Volcano hiking is supposed to be cheapter from this side, but everything else seems to be more expensive (accommodations are about double the price compared to UG and Kenya).
I didn't feel any language barriers, as many young people try to learn English instead of French, but my first day in the city Ivan negotiated most things and Dana took care of negotiations (in French) on day 2... so I might've just been lucky!

Other attractions:
Volcano hiking= $50 (Park fee including ranger) + $30 (guide) + ~$80 (round trip transport for a private car from Kisoro).
One volcano borders 3 countries (Uganda, Rwanda and Congo).
Gorilla trekking = $500 per permit which means 1 hour of viewing. If you go- wear gloves. One lady drew the attention of a blackback who approached her to stroke her hand and communicate with her! A very moving experience!

Adventures in Northern and Western Kenya

2010-06-28T13:05:00.005+03:00

I finished my internship on June 15th and by the 16th I headed out to explore a road less traveled by muzungus.

Day 1: Nairobi --> Kitale
Travel day! I left Nairobi at 2:30pm and arrived at 11pm (due to taking regular matatus instead of direct shuttles).

Day 2: Kitale --> Lodwar
Travel day! The 9am bus didn't leave until 3:30pm so we just spent the day waiting for the bus to leave. I would recommend buying your ticket in the morning and then getting the bus company number so that you can go explore the markets and the area without worrying that you'll miss the bus. Two bus companies to choose from- 700-800 Ksh pp.
The road to Lodwar isn't well maintained and the bus will definitely rock back and forth. Just hold on and it's worth the trek. But be prepared for a 10 hr trip.

Day 3: Eliye Springs (Lodwar)
We met up with Peter (peterlongoliei@yahoo.com), our guide while in the Northern region, and he made the trip so easy. We rented a Landrover and headed out to Eliye Springs (1 hr). On the way we stopped in a few Turkan villages and Peter explained the intricacies of the tribe (he's Turkan). Peter was also essential in negotiating with the Turkans, as few speak Kiswahili or English and most demand 200 Ksh per picture! Instead we payed with a handful of chewing tabacco (1kg for 150 Ksh). The springs aren't anything spectacular, and they will charge you 200 Ksh pp (or per car), but it's a nicer 'destination' than Kalokol. Swimming in Lake Turkana was incredible and it felt so clean. We saw ~100 camels drinking in the water! Eat at Mashalla restaurant for the best meals and friendliest staff- a Somali mama who spices the tea with cinnamon!

Day 4: Ferguson's Gulf, Kalokol (Lodwar)
You take public transit to this location- which means a matatu to Kalokol (1 hr), then a 5km walk to the gulf (or a 200 Ksh taxi), then a 5 min boat ride across the gulf- and finally you're at the fishing village! We ate fresh fish and the Fishing Lodge cooked up a feast! We watched the villages pull in their nets and swam in the lake again. We missed the last mat back to Lodwar, so we hired the mat who let us stop at some more villages before hiking the hills outside of Lodwar to watch the sunset. A pretty ideal 'local' day.

Day 5: Kakuma; Lodwar --> Kitale
Kakuma is home to UN refugee camps for Somali, Sudanese and Ethiopian refugees. We went on a Sunday and unfortunately were not able to enter the camps because we didn't have permission from the UN office in Nairobi and we couldn't contact anyone (as it was the weekend). Other friends have entered the camps without previous permission, but we were unlucky. Instead we wandered through the Internally Displaced People's camp. These are people who were effected by the post election violence in 2007 and now have been given space to create a home. They buy tarps from the UN refugees because there aren't enough natural resources around to cover the homes with palms.
The bus leaves Lodwar for Kitale at 6:30pm SHARP! This time our bus got stuck in mud on the way back but it was eventually pulled out by another bus. Oh Africa!

Day 6: Kitale --> Kakamega
We went from dessert north to rainforest in 18 hrs! We took a mat to Kakamega and got to the forest via boda boda (motorcycle taxi). It was really nice staying within the park at the bandas but you need a guide if you want to find any 'destination' if hiking. Within the first 30 minutes of me wandering alone in the forest I was lost! Luckily I found my bearings and I was able to watch a family of over 30 monkeys move through the canopy overhead. Incredible!

Day 7: Kakamega --> Kisumu
We took things pretty easy this day and stayed at The Wildlife Clubs of Kenya (a bit out of town). We spent the day traveling and eating delicious fish, and the night included finding a local bar (the police mess) and my friends making lots of locals.

Day 8: Kisumu --> Mfanano Island (Sena)
Travel day for sure! We took a matatu (2 hrs) to the North west side of the bay, then a boat to Ruinga Island (30 min), then another boat to Sena (1 hr). The boat rides were beautiful through Lake Victoria and we definitely landed in a very remote town. If we had more time, we could've looked at rock carvings, but instead we watched the Guana vs. Germany match with the locals :)

Day 9: Sena --> Kisumu --> Naivasha
Travel day. Between 8:30 and 2 we were traveling to Kisumu, and by 9 we arrived at Fisherman's village in Naivasha. We met up with more travel friends and camped 7 people in a 4 person tent!

Day 10: Hells Gate; Naivasha --> Nairobi
Hells Gate was amazing. You bike. You hike. You climb. Wonderful! It costs $25 for non-residents to enter the park- which caught a few of our travel pals off guard- but it's worth the beauty.

This itinerary packs a lot in, and there is a lot of travel involved- but it was worth it and I didn't feel 'drained' or anything. It kinda sucks sitting for half of the trip (while in transit) but that's life. I would change the trip by reversing the order of things... starting in Naivasha-->Kisumu-->Kakamega-->Kitale-->Lodwar AND THEN travel across the lake (you need to hire a boat and be prepared to spend a night on an island in the middle of the lake) and then travel back down the east side. The western side of the lake has more reliable transportation... but the east side sounds really nice (with different tribes).

The African Zoo

2010-06-28T12:52:00.003+03:00

It's hard to believe, but in the past month I've seen over 30 different African animals in the wild!
My first glimpse at animals came in Nairobi National Park where you can do a bus safari for $50 (which includes the $40 park entry fee). The bus tour runs on weekends and holidays with the bus picking you up and dropping you off in downtown Nairobi (close to Hambree). It was nice being with all the locals and their kids (who only pay 500 shillings... about $7) and seeing the city in the distance. Here I saw lions, rhinos, giraffes, a python, baboons, buffalo, zebras, osterages, monkeys and the secretary bird.
The real safari adventure began in Maasi Mari. We left on Friday morning, and due to car problems (oh Africa!), we missed the dusk game drive... but on the drive to the park we saw a huge (30+) herd of giraffes and numerous other animals. The real excitement started on Saturday when we were able to see a lion's pride with 6 cubs, hippos, crocodiles, tons of elephants (with their babies!) and even the beginning of the wildebeast migration (which is in its peak late July-Sept). During the dawn drive on Sunday we saw a cheetah, baboons and the coolest part of the trip- 3 hyeenas feasting on a buffalo carcuss! I can still hear the bones crunch :P
Will helped organize this tour, which ended up being only $300 including the game drives, accommodation and food. Definitely worth the experience.

I was amazed at how close we got to the animals. They've become accustomed to vehicles and people, so we were literally only 3-4 meters away from the alpha lion.

Antelopes/Gazelles: Thompson gazelle, Impala, Deek deek, Topi, Grant gazelle, Heartbeast, Wildebeest

Big animals: zebra, elephant, giraffe, lion, cheetah, buffalo, hippo, crocodile, hyena, silverback jackal, wild boar, lock hylax, baboon, monkeys

Birds: osterage, ospicas bird, secretary bird, European vulture, crown crane

Nairobi Life

2010-06-18T18:40:00.001+03:00

Nairobi seems daunting to many, but it's something that has to be seen if you come to Kenya. Once you know a few of the matatu routes, the price for corn on the street and a few landmarks in town, it quickly becomes home.
-Cell Phones: One of the first things that I learned in 'Nairobbery' was to carry my cell phone in my bra. It seemed weird at first, and sometimes it gets sweaty (we're in Africa- it gets hot!) but it has never been stolen. Never use your phone on the street in town (just duck into a shop) and never use it in a matatu.
-Town- it's small and easy to navigate through. Just know a few landmarks (The Hilton, Stanley Hotel, Coast bus station, University of Nairobi, etc.) and then move from there. From one side to another takes about 20min to walk.
-Shopping- Clothes- There are some amazing 2nd hand markets in Nairobi. Adams is the largest (take the #5 or #4 from the Kencom stage) and cheap. You can walk to Ngara from the Globe round-about in town. Cardigans 200-300, t-shirts/tank tops 20-100, jeans 500-1000, dresses 400-900 or skirts 400-600.
-Slums- lots of people go to Kibera (the largest slum in Nairobi) and it's worth seeing what 'real life' is for many people. But it's not a zoo so taking tons of pictures isn't a good idea (unless you want your camera stolen). That being said- I take pictures when I know the people or ask if I can get a group shot with strangers. I spent more time in Dandora, Korogocho, Kariobangi, Huruma, and Mathare (all Eastlands) but there are many places to see what 'life looks like'. Explore with someone who knows the area and make new friends.
-Eating- the best places to buy food is out of town from stands at the side of the road. "Hotels" are actually restaurants. Tea is served with 1/2 milk and lots of sugar- it's delicious!
-You can get 5 DVDs for 200 bob on Moi Ave from a kiosk that says 'Sasa' outside.
-You can use skype at an Internet cafe by the Hilton.

Life in Nairobi is wonderful!

My Internship in Kenya with The Youth Congress

2010-06-15T18:33:00.001+03:00

My time at The Youth Congress is almost done and it's a strange feeling. I still have a few projects with loose ends and I'm just going to have to leave them behind.

I came to The Youth Congress to learn more about Human Rights and Justice. What I ended up working on was project management for their Operational Plan & Strategic Plan, development of their Constitution & a concept map for their Internship Program, mixed in with various human rights workshops and community events. It's been great helping the organization grow, and I think that the next interns will be able to contribute even more. We (Sonja and I) were the guinea pigs :)

The Youth Congress provides a platform for youth (under 35, targeting the slums). It works in partnership with other organizations (CBOs, NGOs, FBOs & CSOs) to ensure that network opportunities and bridge the gap between grassroots and national advocacy. We've played a large role in distributing and providing civic education regarding the proposed constitution. We helped create the 'People's Manifesto' before the 2007 elections, and are now following up on the promises leaders made to ensure that community needs are met. We're peaceful activists.

Being a part of a movement like this has been pretty neat. Seeing how excited young leaders get when they start to interact with The Youth Congress inspires me. Getting VIP treatment at festivals like Safer Koch or Miss Dandora just because of who I work for was pretty cool. It shows that others see the value in this approach. It shows that the people in the slums want to work together to improve their own situation. They're not waiting for a hand out and they're not waiting for their government to make things better. What they can do- they do. And what they need others (govt) to do- they push others to do.

I hope that I return to Kenya in 2 years to see that The Youth Congress has expanded from 3 constituencies in Nairobi (Kasarani, Embakasi and Stahre) and becomes a national organization which represents all provinces. I hope that they continue to provide employment opportunities for people from the slums while partnering with international volunteers. I hope they continue to be the agents of change.

Political Grassroots in Kenya

2010-06-12T18:50:00.001+03:00

The 2007 Kenyan elections shone light upon politics in many African countries. Sometimes the winner doesn't win. Sometimes who you know (and connections) are more important than who you are.

Before the elections, the Kenyan Human Rights Commission (KHRC), an NGO, mobilized 56 constituencies (of 210) to create "People's Manifesto". Basically- a platform created by the people, specifically meeting the needs of their community. They then rallied communities around each manifesto and urged candidates to sign to commit to addressing these concerns. Issues like transparency, holding town hall meetings, building schools or digging water wells were outlined. Nothing outlandish. Urgent needs that addressed basic human rights. People were tired of politicians promising to address the 'wrong issues'. People were tired of only seeing their elected leaders during elections. They were trying to be proactive and work within democracy.

Then the post election violence broke out.

Now, 3 years later, KHRC is following up on the people's manifesto and realizing that few elected leaders have delivered on their promises. They're gathering people from 25 constituencies to develop a 'scorecard' to see what's happened to the demands. They're still advocating in a peaceful and proactive way, trying to engage their leaders.

To me it's sad seeing how hard some try to get democracy to work, only to have it become invalid through the elected leaders. These citizens are doing the work political parties do at home (in Canada). Instead of political platforms guiding the election, citizens try to guide votes through community manifestos.

But the breakdown happens when tribalism, corruption and manipulation comes into play. How do you proactively address that?

Lamu and the Kenyan Coast

2010-06-10T18:31:00.002+03:00

Heading to the coast was once again a wonderful, hot and sweaty trip!

Day 1- Mombasa explorations. We went to Fort Jesus (built on a coral reef), shopped around the old town and walked through the spice market. There's not a ton to do in town, but getting coconut everything made it worthwhile!

Day 2/3- Tiwi- on the South coast, we had an ultimate tournament on the beach. Running in sand for 2 days definitely was a new experience and a ton of fun! Diana is just south of Tiwi, and I hear it is even nicer, but this was a good budget option (Tiwi Lodge, camping 300 per person, 2000 for a double room. Walk down the beach to find better, cheaper food).

Day 3.5- to cut our trip in half, we spent the night in Malindi. Really didn't see much.

Day 4-7- Lamu!!! Island life is always wonderful, and when you mix in the Rasta influence and the Islamic roots, it made my time there even better. There's only 3 cars on the island, and people use boats or donkeys to get around. The streets are narrow, the people are kind. You still get hassled a bit, but it's manageable and you feel safe. One night we stayed up chewing mira (a plant that basically is the same as drinking caffeine all night) until the sunrise, and then lazed around before grabbing a beer at the police station (the cheapest place in town). If you go, you have to eat at Labanda- it's a local joint with amazing (mashed and fried plantains) and coconut fish.

Day 8- we made the trip back to Nairobi in 24 hours. If you take the early boat/bus (750), you're in Mombasa by 2 and can either take the 2:30 bus or wait for the night bus.

Contacts:
Hassan- the boat captain who can taxi you to nearby beaches (100 per person, per way) and who is fluent in English and German. dieselcaptain@hotmail.com 0716858034
Aly Ging Bautal- the best seamstress in town! I got two Kanga bags custom made (including 2 inside zip pockets) for 500 each... and I got to select the kanga, size, etc. His shop is on the 'main street'. 0736888220 or 0717653471.
Shali Babou- He can do almost anything. Arrange for donkey trips, tour your around the island or lead you into the heart of town (where few tourists go) to get henna done by his sister in their home. 0716804245

Let's get Physical

2010-05-29T14:26:00.003+03:00

After climbing Mt. Kenya (a 4 day trek of 47km and 2585m altitude), I’ve gotten into a bit of an active mode.

I’m now in a kickboxing class in a Somali slum. I workout beside the Westlands club bouncers (the bouncers that deal with cash, knives and guns at the busiest bars in Nairobi), and I’m being trained by a professional Ethiopian fighter. He literally has us punch him as hard as we can in the stomach each class. And he used to hold the East African belt. I feel pretty bad ass...

I also try to balance out this testosterone with yoga. It’s close to my work and free... because here the class is full of reform(ed)(ing) criminals. The guys are tough and it’s funny being the only girl- and the only white person- in such rough conditions. The room has no mats, and the floor gets swept once a week, the class is full of friendly giants I wouldn’t want to see get mad… but we’re all doing such a chilled out practice!

Parts of Life in Nairobi

2010-05-26T14:24:00.001+03:00

1. I got onto my matatu (public transit = a pimped out, bad ass old school bus) and watched a man pant in the heat. His body was tangled, one foot bare, the other with a sock. He was wearing a soiled suit and struggling to sleep along the busy road. Monday at 8am. He was passed out and helpless. No one stopped to life him up. No one seemed to care.

2.I lived in the slums for my first week in Nairobi. A colleague welcomed me into her home- a 10x10 room. We lifted the coffee table each night to lay down the mattress. This home housed a family of 4 (plus me). Halima (23), Koi (10), Vivian (2) and their mom (~40). The TV stayed on all night playing Nigerian soap operas with snow and the high pitched squeal that accompanies home made bunny ears. There was no switch for the light, which also stayed on 24/7 and helped keep the cockroaches at bay throughout the night. Living here was a real dose of slum life.
Last week Halima came into the office and told us her mom had not come home for a week. It’s now been more than 2 weeks and still no sign of the mom. Halima has reported the missing person to the police, she’s searched through town and the regular hawking spots, and she’s looked through the hospitals. Nothing.

3.I’ve become the resident “moozungo” (white person) in the slum where I work and used to live. Sometimes I can walk down the street and have little kids run after me screaming “Julliet… how are you?” like a song. I’m comfortable standing out because if feels like I have a posse watching my back (due to my actual resident friends). I’m also reminded to watch my own back when I see guys stumble through the street sniffing glue and dangerously high.

Just off

2010-05-20T13:31:00.002+03:00

I don't plan for it. I don't mind it. It just happens. I always seem to travel during the 'rainy season/winter', which also equates to travelling in the 'off season'. In Central AM I climbed volcanoes in the rain but paid lower prices for accommodations. In the Middle East I saw snow and had limited hiking access due to the high water levels. Now in Kenya I'm frequently dosed with early evening showers, and I was soaked to the bone each day hiking Mt. Kenya.

It may seem like I'm complaining- but I like the coincidence that I've travelled in the 'non-ideal' times. I really enjoy doing 'tourist milestones' (they're famous for a reason), but who likes to share their 'special moment' with hundreds of strangers taking pictures? Seeing fellow tourists becomes rare, and when you do spot one another- you exchange an approving grin instead of a annoyed glare. Plus coming from Calgary, experiencing rain is somewhat a special event. I grew up with rain showers, not downpours. So getting a lil' dirty and wet is a bit of an honor badge for me.

Next up is India for July... maybe my idea of travelling in the 'off season' will change after experiencing the extreme heat!

Tips & Tricks for Nairobi, Kenya

2010-05-13T11:51:00.002+03:00

This post is courtesy of an AIESECer before my time. I'm now just passing on the useful info...

Cellphone: if you want to save yourself some hassle, get a really cheap one from one of the stores in town. They're unlocked and you can buy a SIM card and put it in. You should be able to get a very nice, functional one for >

SIM cards: There are 4 major service providers in Kenya – Safaricom, Zain, Orange, and Yu, most popular being Safaricom and Zain. I would suggest getting a Zain SIM card,because most people have it and you can call/text them for cheap; as well as an Orange one, because it'll let you call home for 10 KSH/min, though it cannot receive texts from Canada.

(Texting costs 10 KSH/min anyway, so it makes sense to call from Orange. There are phone cards you can buy too that's even cheaper.)

You can buy SIM cards at the airport, but they will rip you off so I would suggest getting it in Town the next day. Please don't pay more than 100 KSH for one, there are places you can get one for 50.

Money: If your debit card has a chip on it, it won't work (my experience at least). Use cash withdrawal services on your VISA, so get that pin code if you didn't already!. You can take out cash at any Barkleys, Standard Chartered Bank ATM or at “CashPoints” in Nakumatts (giant grocery/department stores).

There is a NAKUMATT and Barkleys to the MC/UON office, and there's a Barkleys bank ATM at the airport when you get out so you can get cash right away.

The exchange rate is ~70 KSH / dollar. Depending on how frugal you are, 6000 KSH should last you 2-4 weeks.

Groceries: If you want to pick up simple groceries like bread, cereal, peanut butter, jam etc., the NAKUMATT place I mentioned earlier has basically everything, though slightly expensive. There will also be people selling fresh fruits like bananas just on the ground, but only if you go outside of town.

Food: There are food places you can eat everywhere. Don't worry too much about sanitation, it'll be more hassle than good. Bring the pills for “too much” digestion, and “too little”. Their diet doesn't have a lot of fibre in it so watch out for that. Their traditional food is this maize thing called “ugali”, and they have something resembling crepes called “chapo” that you can get for 10-15 KSH/piece and is very tasty. They eat a lot of beans and meat stew, though I've been told the meat consistency isn't the greatest. They also like to eat fries a lot, and they call it “chips”.

There are many places you can go for white people food too, though expect to pay more.

Drinks: Kenya's pretty proud of their beer “Tusker”, and i like it, though other Canadian interns have liked the other one called “Pilsner” more. The cheapest beer in town is at the police station. At the police station, you will probably also “KK – Kenyan King”...I personally think it's the most terrible hard liquor I've tasted...like really disgusting gin, but it's cheap 40% alcohol.

Police Station sells Tusker at 80 KSH.

There is another place called Tacos by the Hilton hotel that sells Tusker at 100 KSH, everywhere else you will pay between 100 and 150 KSH.

You can also get imported beers like Guinness and Heineken for around 150 – 200 KSH.

Every Tuesday night, all the AIESEC Kenya people + interns meet up at either Coco Lounge, or Comfort Inn's Hotel which are across the street from each other. They are both close to the Barkleys and NAKUMATT that I mentioned earlier.

Coffee – Java House, Savannahs and Dormans are the major chain competitors. Coffee's not bad, just expensive (~200 KSH for a latte, ~120 for plain coffee). You can also get it at a place called “Coffee World” near the Hilton Hotel.

Internet Access: You can get free internet access from the Coco Lounge that I mentioned earlier, as well as the “Coffee World” mentioned above, and the “Java House”. Don't pay more than 50 cents/min.

Orient Yourself: In Kenya, people like to give directions with landmarks not street names. But if you still want to use maps (like I did), you can get a free map of Town at the Stanley Hotel, next to the Hilton.

If you're in Town, most people will tell you directions with regards to the Hilton. A good two days of walking around on your own should make you aware of where things are.

Getting Around: Most forms of transport fan out from Town, so you will connect there.

There are 2 bus types that run in Kenya – KBS (big blue buses) and the City Hoppa (smaller yellow/green ones). They have set prices that they put on the windshield, and they give you a receipt so they won't rip you off. They normally run to the west side of town.

However, most of the time you will have to take “Matatus”. They have set routes that they run too, but their prices vary with traffic and weather conditions. It's better to ask whether they go to where you want, and ask for the price before you get on. Bring earplugs if you're sensitive to loud booming music, cause they like to blare those on the matatus.

In town, there are many “stages” or places to take the Matatus. The same routes will always be at the same place, but you need to know where to go. Generally they are along the road “Tom Mbuya”, which in itself isn't that safe, so walk on its parallel “Moi” until you know where to turn. Don't get freaked out by the traffic, just dodge the cars.

Going Out: Most clubs are in Westlands, around 10 min drive outside Town and clubs don't close at 3 am so people can drink/dance all night. Gypsies is a “white” people club because they play a lot of techno/European music...Kenyans don't like it but I'm ashamed to say I did. Just don't bring anything valuable with you.

Staying Safe: Try not to read a map in the middle of the street or stop to take pictures or look lost. It'll single you out. Walk briskly, with determination (like you know where you're going even if you have no idea) and don't make eye contact with people. I sound like a paranoid crazy bat but it's worked for me when I got lost in the really sketchy parts of town.

If you get lost in Town, and sometimes you will because Matatus can drop you at random places, just walk around a bit until you can see the top of the Hilton, and walk towards that.

Don't wander around after 8 unless you're with a crowd and going out. If you're alone, get out of town on a matatu as soon as you can.

Don't bring anything with you that you'll be terribly upset at losing. Leave your important documents where you're staying (though keep the originals and copies separate).

Health Emergencies: The Aga Khan Hospital and Nairobi Hospital are reliable with really high quality, but expensive, so don't worry. I don't think anything should happen except the occasional upset stomach though. I already gave you my 2 cents on the malaria pills.

The Travels - I heard great things about Lamu beach (world heritage site), Maasai Mara, and climbing Mount Kenya (2^nd largest mountain in Africa). Maasai and Mt. Kenya should cost around 300 USD each, and Lamu would be less depending on how you get up there.

The People -The Kenyans are generally nice, but don't be surprised if people come up to you and ask you to give them a job. Unless you're being robbed (and sometimes even then), the people will remain amiable and nice to you. Like I said, the bigger problem is their inability to say “no” to your questions, so in the end you're the one confused as to what they know or don't know...if that made sense.

The Youth Groups in the Slums

2010-05-10T10:29:00.003+03:00

I toured through a neighboring slum and was introduced to three different youth organizations. People here come together to form a group who help one another find a source of income.
Group 1) This group has 16 members who earn 30 shillings (approx. 50 cents)/week/home to collect garbage. When there is enough funds collected, one member opens a business. So far there are two shops open: a barber shop and a 2nd hand electronics shop.
Group 2) This group has recently formed and they pool their skills together to open a 'Jack of All Trades' shop specializing in carpentry, mechanics, art design, etc. They're new to the market and optimistic that things will work out. They train one another on the skills and they are eager to get their first job.
Group 3) This CBO (Community Based Organization) is gearing up for World Environment Day on June 5th. They will clean up a dumping site and plant seedlings. They will sort through the garbage that has piled up for 1 year, salvage plastics, metals and other re-sellables, use organic materials for potting soil and send the rest to the city dump. There's a huge underground industry here for waste management. The city falls behind and youth groups fill in the gap- fundraising along the way. They make their rags into riches.

Nairobi Wild

2010-05-02T16:25:00.003+03:00

Yesterday we walked a few kilometers and I got to see the 'wild side' of the city.

Now in most cities, it's normal to see some stray cats and dogs running around, mixed in with a few birds. But here in Kenya... normal is something entirely different.

We walked past a dump and saw MASSIVE pigs feasting on the garbage. I wouldn't want to eat that pork ;) Then just up the road there were cranes a top another pile of rubbish. Walking through the market I had to steer through a herd of goats and chickens are spotted throughout the city- both in cages and wandering the streets.

Who said you needed a safari to see the wildlife here?

Youth Issues in Kenya

2010-05-02T09:07:00.000+03:00

Are these issues specific to Kenya or do we feel the same things in Canada or in the Middle East? The list was compiled by youth organization leaders in Kasarani, Nairobi. Please share your thoughts…

Unemployment
Drug Abuse
Untapped Talents
Ignorance/Lack of Information
Manipulation
Lack of Resources
Corruption
Inferiority Complex/Insecurity
Education
Lack of Consultation

Tribalism/Nepotism
Police Harassment
Lack of Creativity & Innovativeness
Exposure & Networking
Crime
Lack of Opportunity
Health
Culture/Media
HIV/AIDS
Poverty
Government Policies

Welcome to Kenya

2010-04-28T14:10:00.002+03:00

In just one week I feel like I’ve gone from one edge of Kenya to the other.
Things started out in the middle- I stayed at a dorm with my AIESEC friend and had a beer downtown.
Then a group of Kenyans invited me and two other internationals on a 4 day road-trip to the coast. We had borrowed a matutu (14 passenger van), which broke down along the way… causing the 6 hour trip to turn into a 18 hr adventure! Time on the coast was ideal… swimming in the Indian Ocean, staying up all night, burying people in sand, staying at a 4 star hotel- living the life. I was shocked at how comfortable everything seemed to be- it was just like life at home.
Then back to Nairobi and onto the other extreme- living in a slum. Everyday I’m greeted with ‘Moozungu’ (white person) and kids who just want to touch my skin. I’m also working with a great group of people at the “Youth Congress” who are empowering youth and networking leaders towards change. I’ve seen traditional African dances, exchanged numbers with ‘Miss Ghetto’, listened to rappers and watched 3 year olds booty bump. I’ve been eating the traditional food (which is super heavy- full of corn and rice), and attempting to learn Swahili. Basically- I’m surviving!

Week Expeditions- Lebanon

2010-04-17T20:21:00.006+03:00

Part IV- Lebanon in a few days

Day 1- Arrived in Beirut and did the sunset walk along the corniche. So many locals were out and active. Had a beer with an immigrated Libian by AUB.

Day 2- Checked out the ruins at Byblos (origin of writing with ruins on the Med. Sea) & took the Telefrique up the mountain at Jonieh to view the coast from above.

Day 3- Was stunned by the stamites & stagilites in Jeitta Grotto. Definitely worthy of being in the running for '7 next world wonders'.

Day 4- Went to Bsharri to hike in the Kadisha valley. It's beautiful and a must. I should've stayed the night here to really take advantage of the mountains. That night we went out on the town, broke into an abandoned house and ate a banana hot dog!

Day 5- Lazed around Beirut prepping for the next move!

Definitely stay at Talal Hotel (2 blocks from the bus station) if you're traveling solo. Easy to meet people to travel/party with.
Public transit (mini-buses) go everywhere if you're okay to get dropped off on the side of the highway. Just ask people and they'll point you in the right direction.
You can walk anywhere in Beirut.
People are liberal and anything goes.
Most people speak Arabic, many English and Friend. I had no problems communicating in English (but a friend that traveled in Beiruit ran into problems).

Amman gems

2010-04-16T00:25:00.003+03:00

Webda- artsy neighborhood

Canvas- jazz show every Tuesday night. Get there around 8 for dinner or reserve a table. Show is between 10-12.
Jo-Bedu- T-shirt shop off Dwar Paris
Souvenir/antique shop at Dwar Paris
House parties every weekend!

Rainbow street- close to downtown and 'the' area

Al Quds- a falafel establishment that has been around for years.
Old View Cafe- a perfect stop for evening chai and amazing view of downtown
Books @ Cafe- free wireless and amazing Friday brunch. Good portions, good prices and 'the' ex-pat place. Gay/Lesbian friendly.
La Calle- perfect for futball matches
Royal Film Commission- free documentaries show all week long
Numerous other cafes line the street.

Al Ballad (Downtown). Get dropped off at Hussein Mosque

Jafa- my favorite cafe in town. Amazing sheesha, atmosphere with an authentic feel.
Souks- the best place to wander and find anything you may need for half the price in the malls.
Al Quds- traditional Arab food outside of the normal shwarma and falafel
Rare Books & Art Gallery- located in the Jordan's first Prime Minister's flat, this gem is unknown and has English and Arabic books from the 1940s. The owners will invite you for chai and amazing conversations. Owned by the same people who have the 'book stand' by Jaffa.
Roman Amplitheatre- a step back in time... watch for local artists putting on concerts here.

Souk Sultan (T'lal Ali)

The best mezza (hummus, foul, falafel and Iranian bread) in town. Amazing prices (1-1.5JD per person) and friendly staff. Definitely a 'local' gem. Close to the Medina & University Street crossing.
Great discount outlets and you can find clothing, food, shoes, etc. on this strip.

Abdoun- the rich, Westernized area

Blue Fig Cafe- a nice hang out place for all.
Numerous restaurants- find Indian, Sushi, Chinese... it's all here. Prices are higher and the clientele is classy.
Mansions are abundant in this area. Parties happen here regularly both in homes and at the embassies.

Citadel- the best views in the city. Get there before 4pm and try to watch a sunset.

Abdali- close to downtown where the main bus station is
. Friday 2nd hand market- get there by 7am for the best selection.

*To find weekly events- check out www.7iber.com/
Locals love their malls & cinemas. Check out City Mall, Mecca Mall or Al Baraka Mall.

Syria and Lebanon border crossings

2010-04-15T16:26:00.004+03:00

Syria- We took a shared taxi from Amman (12.5 JD per person or 30 JD for the back seat). Things were pretty easy- get out at stop one to 'depart' from Jordan. Drive to the other side. Fill out one form. Give your passport to the guy. Pay for your visa. Get your stamp and you're on your way. They 'held' my passport for about an hour because I was supposed to get my visa ahead of time. My Estonian friend was zipped right through. We got dropped off at the side of the road in Damascus and paid 150 SL to get a lift to the next bus station.

Lebanon- I took a bus from Damascus to Beruit (400 SL) and again things were straightforward. You can get out money in Lebanese Lyre at an ATM right on the border and you have to pay for your visa in LL. You get dropped off at a bus station by a port. Depending on how much stuff you have, you can walk pretty much anywhere in the city. From the bus station to AUB only takes about 30-40 min and a taxi shouldn't be more than 10,000 LL.

Syria visa for a Canadian = 2573 SL ($56); visa for Estonian = 550 ($12)

Syria departure tax for all = 550 SL ($12)

Lebanon visa = 25000 LL ($17)

Week Expeditions- Syria

2010-04-14T17:52:00.002+03:00

Part III: Syria in six days...
This country completely charmed me. There are Roman ruins and Crusader castles. The countryside varies from dessert to lush green farms to black sand Meddterainan seaside. And you can find everything you want or need (from jewelry to flip flops to electrical converters) and everything is cheap! When I pictured the Middle East- this is what I thought it would look like.

Day 1: Traveled from Amman --> Damascus --> Lattakia. Driving through the green countryside was a nice change from Jordan & we handpicked our fish for supper that night (Spiros). Wine was only 500 SL per bottle so Kristina and I got tipsy before enjoying a late night chat in a park! Natural grass does exist in the Middle East (something we so miss in Jordan)!

Day 2: We spent the day at the Wadi Qandil (black sand beach) and had the whole place to ourselves. It was a bit windy, but swimming in the waves was worth the small cold we got! That afternoon we travelled to Damascus and enjoyed meeting the locals who drink in the Christian quarter park on Thursday night before heading out to nightclubs.

Day 3: Damascus- we hit up the Umayyad Mosque just before the Friday noon prayer, then dined at Art Cafe Ninar before taking a taxi up the mountain (Quayssu) to view Damascus from above. That night we met up with some expat diplomats and had a real 'night out', coming back to our hotel at 5am! Damascus' nightclubs are a definite step up from Amman (and more 'liberal').

Day 4: After wandering through the souks and tasting the famous ice-cream, I took a train to Aleppo and Kristina returned to Amman :( The trainride was wonderful and when I was about to take a taxi to my hotel, a local offered to walk me there. We stopped at his friend's perfume shop and I ended up being hosted by his daughter and family! Syrian hospitality is incredible. Two families gathered as we ate shwarma and communicated through the only English-Arabic speaker!

Day 5: I went to my first Armenian mass on Sunday morning, and then wandered around the Aleppo. The souks here are more charming than in Damascus, but people are a bit more pushy. I made some Aussie friends and we were treated to a 'whirly' dance in Kaser Al-Wali.

Day 6: I went to the Citadel for a morning view of Aleppo, and then took a bus to Homs --> Palymra. A taxi took me to the Elahbel, then the Hypogeum of the Three Brothers (underground burial chamber), then I walked around the ruins before being taken to the Arab Castle for sunset. If I were to do it again, I would just walk through the ruins and time it so I could walk up the mountain to the Arab Castle, avoiding the tour buses and the 500 SL taxi 'tour' charge.

Day 7: I woke up for the sunrise in Palymra, then traveled onto Beiruit in time for the sunset!

Tips:
-Book your hotel in Damascus ahead of time as most things fill up.
-Restaurants 'up-sell' you by putting tissue boxes, water or nuts on your table. If you don't want them, and don't want to pay, just ask them to take them back.
-Don't pay more than 100 SL for taxis most places. 200 SL to taxi you up the mountain in Damascus one way (when a local is with you and negotiating).
-Beer or a glass of wine should just be 100 SL in a restaurant.
-Let people be nice! It's strange accepting gifts (like a bottle of perfume or a bar of Aleppo soap) with people you just meet, but they are sincere gestures. Maybe it's because I'm a girl and traveling solo, but people have been treated me like family.

Contacts and suggestions:
Lattakia- Safwan Hotel 0933376900. Mohammed was everywhere and even helped us find a place to stay in Damascus when everything in LP was booked. Conviently located. Double w/ bathroom= 700 SL/night
Damascus- Al-Amin Al-Jadid Hotel 00963/95526110. We stayed in the heart of the Old City and the owner was helpful and kind. Double = 800 SL/night
Aleppo- Hanadi Hotel- 2238113. The owner is friendly and the location is perfect- half way between the Citadel & the Christian quarter (Al-Jdeida). Shared triple w/ bathroom & breakfast = 550 SL per person
Palmyra- Baad Shamen Hotel- 5910453. Mohammed treated me like family and arranges everything from supper to tours to suggestions on where to shop. Single w/ bathroom = 400 SL/night

Week Expeditions-Jordan

2010-04-11T14:01:00.005+03:00

Part II- The Jordan Expedition

I hosted my parents in Jordan for less than a week and we hit up most major sites. Here's how you can do Jordan in a week.

Day 1- I picked up my folks from the Palestine (King Hussein Bridge) border and we drove to Bethany and Beyond (Jesus' baptism site). From there, we spent the afternoon at the Dead Sea, caking ourselves in mud and floating in the lowest point on earth. Time things to watch a sunset as you eat your dinner!
Day 2- I took mom to the Turkish bath in Jabal Amman, and Dad toured around the Ballad (downtown) souks (markets), walking up to the Roman Amplitheatre. That evening we went to a Jordanian family feast, and were treated to the Al Rousan hospitality and the traditional meal of mansef (lamb in yogurt sauce).
Day 3- We drove to Karak (crusader castle), and took the Dead Sea Highway on our way to Aquaba (Red Sea). We spent the afternoon on the beach and enjoyed a seafood feast.
Day 4- We went to Petra and spent the morning/early afternoon inside. You can easily see Petra in 1 day, but if you like wandering around and hiking- it would be fun to explore in 2-3 days. Late in the afternoon, we drove North on the Kings Highway, then to the Dead Sea Highway for another sunset.
Day 5- Jerash (Roman ruins), were explored this day, followed by one last feast with my Iraqi neighbor (who made 7 dishes and 2 desserts for lunch for 3 people!).

Other must sees:

Wadi Rum (dessert with massive mountains and Bedouin camping).
Umm Qays (Ruins in the North bordering the Golan Heights. Less restored than Jerash).
Aljuin hiking (spring)
Wadi Ma'en (hike through a hot spring stream)
Wadi Mujib (canyoning and repelling down a waterfall)
Dana Nature Reserve (South with incredible rock colors)
Refugee camp (Gaze- outside of Jerash)

Contacts:
Wadi Rum Bedouin: Sabbah +962777891243
Car Rental from Crown Plaza (25JD per car per day + gas)
Darna Village- South of Aquaba on public beach - darnavillage@gmail.com 00962 79 671 2831
Jordan Adventure- can organize hiking or scuba trips. f16amer@hotmail.com 0777999826
Al Pasha Turkish Bath- +962 6 4633002

If you don't want to rent a car, most places are accessible by bus or taxi. Always have the taxi use a meter. Locals don't tip (service is included in most bills), and never pay more than 5JD for a taxi ride less than 20 minutes. Food and hospitality is a major part of Jordanian life, so it's good to accept the offer for a tea and chat. For more information, and a copy of the "Jordanian Handbook", please contact me directly.

Week Expeditions- The Gulf

2010-04-01T14:27:00.003+03:00

Part I- The Gulf

I went on a cruise with my folks. Day 1 & 6 = Dubai (UAE). Day 2 = Muscat (Omen). Day 3 = Fujairah (UAE). Day 4 = Bahrain. Day 5 = Abu Dhabi (UAE).

I've now seen 4 of the 6 GCC, and it's like entering a different world here. Based on my limited impressions (1-5 days on each), here's what I think:

Kuwait- It seems to be the most traditional and conservative. (55% expat to 45% local). My friend teaches here and lives a very Canadian lifestyle in an apartment building full of Canadians, segregated from the locals (other than the students she teaches). My rating = 6/10

Bahrain- Also seems more traditional, only alcohol is legal here- which draws in thousands of weekend visitors. There's even a 25km causeway from Saudi Arabi to Bahrain to facilitate 'trade and travel' within the GCC. Another 40km causeway is being constructed to connect Quatar.It's a small island with not a ton to see. My rating = 5/10

Omen- The best Gulf country. It is more relaxed in every sense. No skyscrapers. Lots of dessert and outdoor activities available. Some of the best scuba in the region. Alcohol is legal, but not a selling feature. It's wonderful- a mix of sea and dessert with welcoming people who seem down to earth. My rating = 9/10

United Arab Emerates:

Abu Dhabi- 85% of UAE land is in this Emeriate, and as such, the Shiek from this Emeriate is the President of the country. The city is full of growth and development, but as my ex-pat friend explained- people are only here for work. 80% expat to 20% local. It is gaining in popularity is growing smartly. My rating = 4/10

Dubai- I wasn't impressed with this city, as it screamed artificial and fast to me. It just doesn't jive with my ideals right now. That being said, people can own homes here and the city is full of opportunity to make a killing. What I didn't realize is how many Bangladeshi and Pakistani people are here running the city.Behind the glamor and the glitz, these men leave their families and homes to send money back. Beaches are created (Palm Island or 'The World'), the tallest building jets into the sky, and pansies line the roads. My rating = 2/10

Fujaira- We actually spent the day in Omen when we went to port here- as there isn't a lot to see/do other than it being an industrial port. There are major oil land tanks being built here as 'on shore' security. My rating = 1/10

Cruisin'

2010-03-31T07:37:00.002+03:00

Before I left, I was sure I was heading to the Gulf to spend some quality time with my folks. But after I boarded the ship, I started to realize I was entering into a new world. I was sailing on a 4 star hotel that made day trips into reality. There was three course meals and a buffet available around the clock. I could hit the gym, go climbing, swim through pools, or drink a pina colada on the deck. There was entertainment (magic, musicals and acrobatics) every night and contests every day. After spending 6 months in Jordan, I stepped from the United Arab Emeriates onto a boat of overconsumption.

Now I'm not complaining. I regularly ate too much sushi and I have the burn to prove that I soaked up too much sun. But it was strange experiencing a textbook case from Tourism 409. The Gulf region is new to the Cruise-ship world, and ports like 'Fujara' and 'Bahrain' are new to mass, intense tourism. Yes- they have 7 star hotels ready to serve the uber rich of the GCC, but having an influx of 2500 foreigners one day each week is an attractive new industry that's starting to take root. This ship has only been here for 3 months and will leave in a few weeks, retreating from the heat and heading back to Europe. The locals will be left to survive the 85% humidity and 45+*C weather.

This injection of foreign money into the souks and tour companies is being welcomed by locals. And when I say locals, I mean the foreign workers that come to Omen, UAE and Bahrain to work for the locals. Money drives this world we live on...

The parental units have arrived.

2010-03-22T00:14:00.002+02:00

The tour guide in me is about to be unleashed. My parents just got in and I'm ready for a month of traveling the region before jetting to Africa. Tomorrow we fly to Dubai and cruise around the Gulf for a week stopping in UAE, Bahrain and Omen. Then one last week living and working in Amman before a 'see all of Jordan in 5 days' whirlwind expedition before solo backpacking through Syria and Lebanon.

I really feel like I'm leaving on such a high note. Work is perfect right now. I've wrapped up the English/business training courses, I'm still delivering TOT and teamwork courses on the side, and I've finished some big Customer Advocacy projects. The final week will be filled with reports, goodbyes and (inshalla) some events!

I'm starting to realize how much I'll miss my friends here. They're so wonderful, laid back and ready to explore. Explorations can be in the ballad (downtown), in wadis (canyon hiking) or on the beach (Red or Dead Seas). There are so many nationalities bringing in so many different experiences and expectations. Who thought that I'd learn how to eat the WHOLE apple or have the chance to teach yoga in Jordan???

I guess it just goes to show that you don't know what you have until it's gone (or slipping away). You also don't know what doors random opportunities open for you if you're willing to take the first step...

Backpacking To-Bring List

2010-03-21T21:26:00.001+02:00

headlamp (super important)... I also bring a back-up flashlight
first aid kit (small with bandaids, a lighter, safety pins, tylenol, after bite, scissors, polysporin, tums, pepto, alcohol swabs, and other small things)
a bandana (a great 'just in case' to cover your head from sun, wipe off sweat, look sweet!)
an umbrella
a rain jacket or poncho
a leatherman or swiss army knife
a scarf or two (to be used as a cover up wrap, for warmth, a head wrap, a towel, etc.
a sarang (which I also use as a towel)
shampoo, conditioner & liquid soap (less messy than bars)
no need for make-up (you'll sweat it all off anyways!)
your ipod (and if you have a small ipod player that runs on batteries- bring it!)
your camera and extra batteries (or a battery charger)
check to see what electrical outputs they have and buy converter plugs if necessary
I travel with my yoga mat
an alarm clock (something small)
think about brining an old cell phone and buying a SIM card (sometimes they're super cheap and helpful). Not necessary but an option
sandles (which should also be used in the shower)
for shoes- you really just need a pair of runners and a pair of sandles. Maybe one pair of flats too (but realistically- you only need 2 pairs of shoes)
a hat!
bikinis!
you don't need as many clothes as you think. Honestly- a few pairs of shorts, one pair of jeans or lulus (it's going to be too hot anyways but you'll want one pair of long pants for rainy days), 4 tank tops, 3 t-shirts, 1 long sleeved shirt, 1 zip up hoodie and 10 pairs of underwear. You just mix and match and it's all good. No one will care about style and you can always buy more cheap shit there. I bought a pair of 'convertable' pants (zip off pants to become shorts) and I'm really glad I have them. Keep you bag light!
a journal and extra pens
a combo lock (sometimes you can lock your bag up)
You might be able to cook a lot in your hostels, and so bringing a small pouch of spices would be a good idea. Seasoned packers uses old film cases with spices (just basics like basil, salt, pepper). When you're moving around a lot, sometimes it's nice to cook... but it's hard when you never have what you need.
ONE book. You can trade books at hostels and you just keep exchanging as you go. Even trading travel books works. I brought the Lonely Planet for Guat and then just kept exchanging as I went to different countries.
Some American money as a backup. I usually have about $200 USD with my passport as a 'just in case'. It's a globally accepted currency.

I think it's easiest to get money out using ATMs.

Lost and Returned... the mobile that came back

2010-03-21T18:00:00.001+02:00

In a world that's becoming more technologically bound, losing a cell phone can be a devastating blow to your work and social life. One SIM card holds relationships built over 6 months and the primary link to your life. Yes- the world did work before cell phones...

Back at work, only 5 minutes after exiting the taxi, I realized my phone was missing. My colleague dialed it but there was nothing. It must've slipped out of my pocket :( Not 10 minutes later, the taxi driver called my colleague, and a mere 20 minutes after that, it was delivered... not only to my building, but to my desk!

Jordanians are wonderful people!

Amman to Jerusalem made easy (King Hussein/Allenby Bridge)

2010-03-16T00:03:00.006+02:00

It's true... you can visit Palestine/Israel and have no stamp in your passport (allowing you to travel in other Arab countries including Syria!) I've been through the process 3 times in the past 5 months. Here's how to do it:

Go to the North (Tabarbour) bus station in Amman. If in a taxi, let them know you want to go to the 'King Hussein Border Crossing'.
You can get a shared taxi (4 people, 5 JD each) or a shared bus (~12 people, ~3 JD each).
Once you get to the border, the Palestinians are dropped off at one stop, and foreigners at another. You will give your Passport to the Departure officer, and say 'no stamp' (although it seems automatic that they stamp a piece of paper).
Then you get on a bus, and often you wait until it gets full. You will get your passport back when on the bus. ( 3 JD and 1 JD per piece of luggage)
1/2 way through the border, a man will come on the bus and take your stamped piece of paper.
At the Israeli border, you need to get a 'luggage sticker' on the back of your passport. Even if you have no luggage, you still need a sticker that says '0'.
You get in another line, and get another sticker on the back of your passport.
You then go through security.
You then get to the custom's officers. This is where you need to say "Please- no stamp in my passport". They can refuse it and they will stamp your passport unless you give a good reason why they shouldn't (like wanting to travel to Syria next week).
You go through a few more lines, then you're through!
You buy your ticket for the bus to Jerusalem outside. It costs 35 shekels (~8 JD).
You will get dropped off 2 blocks away from the Damascus Gate (to the Old City). This is in the Arab part of the city.
If you need an ATM, walk towards the Old City (~2 blocks). Then take a right and walk 2 more blocks. Then one more right (there's a big parking lot to your left... the old border line between Jordan and Israel/Palestine), and there's a Money Changer and ATM beside a food stand.

Small random notes:

*Be very careful when removing the stickers on the back of your passport. Use a hairdryer and remove all adhesive before traveling to Syria. I've talked to a person who was refused at the border because of residue on his passport.

*Even if you have a ride at the border gate, you still need to pay for the bus to Jerusalem. I was dropped off at the gate (2 min from the border), and when I caught a ride into the border, I still had to pay 35 shekels.

*Whether you leave Amman at 6am or at 8am, you'll still probably get into Jerusalem around 11:30. Sleep in! The wait usually happens when the bus is waiting to become full (longest wait for the bus that crosses between the Jordanian and Israeli/Palestinian border offices).

Exit fees and visas

There is no longer an exit fee from Jordan!!!
The exit fee from Israel/Palestine is 167 shekels (36 JD)
You need a valid Jordanian visa before coming back to Jordan. This is usually only an issue for people who are coming to Jordan for the first time through this border.

Little 'Facts'

*This is the only border that Palestinians travel through and I've been told that Israelis aren't allowed to use this crossing.

*There is another border crossing to the North. It has a different exit fee (only 96 shekels) and I've been told that it is faster to get through. There's also a border crossing in the South.

*The border closes at noon on Friday and Saturday.

*The border opens at 8am.

Say What?

2010-03-13T00:46:00.000+02:00

I've experienced language barriers before, but Arabic seems to have the largest gap. Body language is how I get through my encounters, and I'm proud to often understand what's going on despite only understanding 20 words. It's funny how I was so proud and stern about the necessity to learn spanish to interact with locals in Central America, but here, after 5 months, I still haven't made a decent attempt to learn Arabic. Yes- most people I interact with speak English (albeit broken), but there are so many more people I will never be able to share experiences with due to my ignorance- my lack of effort.

The Small Family

2010-03-11T00:36:00.002+02:00

I arrived at 11:30 ready for the midnight boat ride to Egypt. It didn't take long to realize I was the only Western girl, and only 1 of 5 girls in total, among 250+ men ready to depart. Most were truck drivers, rough with wandering eyes. I took my place on an outer edge bench, trying to blend in and not draw attention.

My 'mother' was 60+, her age visible by her weathered face, dramatized by smoking and laughing too much. She spoke as much Enlgish as I did Arabic, but our smile exchanges sealed our bond. She slept on cardboard and cackled at every joke cracked.

My 'father's shirt buttons were about to burst with his belly laugh. He was at least 55 with 2 wives, eagerly showing me pictures of his trampy 2nd wife in Canada, followed by his 3 year old son and overweight wife in Jordan. His gold and diamond studded watch were bold marks of his wealth, complimented by his business travels abroad.

These two were my best choice for company.

Leaving at 12 turned into 2am and by 3:30am I retreated to an empty bench for a rest. Wrapped in my sleeping bag with my purse as a pillow and my arm around my backpack, I managed 2ish hours of sleep. I was awoken the first time by the Call for Prayer, and again at 6, just after sunrise. By 6:30am I grabbed a chai and egg sandwich, again finding my initial family smiling and waving me over for a cigarette. When in Rome...

It's strange how groups form with those who initially make you feel comfortable. Safe. The stares would continue to follow me for the next 12 hours, but this this initial family, who spoke to me in broken English and got excited with my 20 word Arabic vocab, I was at ease. A mere 17 hrs later I said goodbye and stepped into Egypt.

The boat trip to Egypt

2010-03-08T23:59:00.002+02:00

If you're planning on a nice, relaxing weekend in Egypt from Jordan... don't take the boats.

Logistics:

Amman --> Aquaba = bus (Departure schedule below)

Aquaba --> Port = taxi

Aquaba --> Nuweiba = ferry (slow or fast option... check this website for details)

Between Amman and Nuweiba took me 25 hrs on the way there and 19 hrs on the way back (leaving me with only 39 hrs to enjoy Egypt). The total trip cost $170 USD transit (taxi, boat & buses), $25 in Visas/Exit fees, $24 for souvenirs (including 8+ items... great deals!) and $27 USD for food and accommodation!

It wasn't all bad. I did catch up on a lot of reading and writing, and it was definitely nice to people watch for long periods of time. The frustrations came due to long periods of waiting for 'regular scheduled boats/buses' to leave on time.

On my way to Nuweiba, I took the slow ferry, which was supposed to leave at midnight, and instead shipped out at noon the following day. I was the ONLY female foreigner amongst hundreds (at least 500) Jordanian and Egyptian men. There was probably an additional 10 other local women on board. Eyes followed me everywhere.

On the way back to Aquaba, I took the fast ferry. This was definitely the tourist boat, and I was even able to sneak into first class due to a Jordanian lady who took me under her wing. This boat was supposed to leave at 3pm (the first boat to leave that day), and instead shipped out around sunset (approximately 6pm), making it impossible to connect to the last JETT bus to Amman. That meant either waiting until the 'night bus' filled with people before departure (anytime between 10-1am) or taking a shared taxi to Amman.

This adventure left a bitter-sweet taste in my mouth in terms of women traveling alone in this region. On one hand, local ladies were so kind and helpful to me. A group of ladies dressed in abayas, who were tending to their 0-5 year old children, adopted me on the slow ferry and gave me a juice box and crackers! Another lovely lady was my travel partner while waiting for the fast ferry in Nuweiba. On the other hand, the taxi driver on the way home took his wedding ring off and tried to stroke my neck (amongst other things)- definitely crossing a line.

I emerged from this journey unscarred but wiser. Please, if you're traveling long distances, write down the name and license plate of your driver just in case something bad happens. For the most part, people are good, and if you can find a female travel mate, then all the better.

Jett to Aquaba

Abdali- 7, 9, 11, 14, 16, 18

7th Circle- 8:30, 15:30

North (Taborbour)- 10, 14:30, 17:00

South (Mujamaana)- 6:30, 11:30, 13:30, 19:00

Conflicting Stories

2010-03-01T22:06:00.003+02:00

Last week one of my colleagues made a presentation in class about the choice to wear a hijab as a symbol of female empowerment. Basically, a woman with a hijab will be judged by her mind, not her body. She will be free to go outside of her home free from the fear of harassment.

My experience in Amman has been very positive in terms of women's rights. Women are in the workplace, a majority of the students at Universities are women and in mixed crowds we talk openly about marriages, dating... the whole lot! The roles of families are much different here, and many of my local female friends aren't out after 10pm... but it's not like they're locked in a prison or anything.

Then I was sent a copy of the JOHUD Gender Study. It conflicted with all of my experiences thus far in Jordan. It felt like something I would have read before I moved here. Something full of stereotypes and old realities. I checked the publication date. April 2009! Not even 1 year old!

Please- if you have the time and interest- read this study.

Maybe the contrast in realities lie in the population in the study (marginalized people from Irbid (2nd biggest city) & Sahab (another urban center)). But I feel like an essential link is missing between my friends in Amman and the people in this study.

Bonus!

2010-02-27T20:11:00.002+02:00

Working for a large company has its perks... like a bonus after performance appraisal! Being interns, we weren't sure if our 'meets expectations' had the same monetary incentive that our colleagues were enjoying. But alas, we too are valued! Damn it feels good to be a gansta!

Al Pasha Turkish Bath

2010-02-27T18:57:00.003+02:00

Today I visited a Hammam which I highly recommend for anyone traveling in this region.

Step 1: Hot tub soak

Step 2: Steam room sweat with slush drink

Step 3: Hot tub

Step 4: Full body scrub (exfoliation) and wash

Step 5: Hot tub

Step 6: Full body massage

Step 7: Sauna

Step 8: Shower

Step 9: Tea & Water refreshments

3 hours of relaxing bliss!

Umm Qays with the Al Rousan's

2010-02-23T21:12:00.002+02:00

Roaming through Roman ruins with a family who has a village named after their tribe was something I never expected to do before arriving in Jordan. The Al Rousan's have been wonderful to me, first exposing me to mansef, giving me a glimpse at real Jordanian family life, and now on a weekend trip to the north- their homeland.

Umm Qays is beautiful this time of year, with everything green and vibrant. We could see the Golan Heights and the Sea of Galilee from their property. We stopped in to have tea with a Bedouin family while Firas played with the sheep. We watched the sunset from the ruins before making multiple tea stops on the way home visiting family.

I couldn't have asked for a nicer Saturday in Jordan.

What do you 'really' want?

2010-02-21T20:53:00.002+02:00

From a pool of 96 agents, only 23 initially signed up to improve their advanced English and business skills... and now I'm down to 11 just 6 weeks later. What happened? Time commitment.

It's funny how what people want and what they're willing to do to achieve it often doesn't align. Often they don't even understand what they need, and instead look for some magic answer. We're all guilty of it. Even my bosses want me to 'teach spoken English... not worrying about grammar'. But in order to put sentences together with a proper structure, you need to understand grammar.

So next time you want something- ask yourself what you need... and what you're willing to do to get it.

Wearing Hijabs and Belly Dancin with the Girls

2010-02-16T21:49:00.002+02:00

Last weekend we had a girls only party where ladies could take off their hijabs and we could dance the night away! We had a few friends from Umniah, a few AIESEC ladies and our neighbor over for a potluck feast. Together we danced Dubka (the traditional Jordanian/Palestinian dance), Kristina showed off her belly dancing moves, and we even tried the 'lalalala' call women do when celebrating. Towards the end of the night we all tried on a hijab, and I returned the 'egghead' status I had when I was a fat baby. Women are empowered when wearing the scarf... but without the greater purpose, I just felt uncomfortable.

It was so nice having a tame girls night. The last female only party I was part of was in Canada for Jessica's stagette party. This was a stark difference, to say the least.

Dazzled and Dine with Diplomacy for Iran's national day

2010-02-14T15:08:00.002+02:00

On Thursday I went to my first diplomatic function and I got to witness first hand the 'glamour and glitz' diplomats are privy to. Its mostly just exchanging business cards mixed with small talk, followed by a few national anthems and food. All-in-all the event was less than two hours, celebrating Iran's national day. The room was filled with international people, with 80% being male and most being 50+.

I was a bit of a wild card; a guest of the Vice Consul for the Philippines. I was the youngest person there, a female, and when people heard my accent they got excited. "What embassy are you from?" After explaining that I'm Canadian working as an intern at a Telecomm, their excitment turned to disappointment. And not having business cards to distribute was a bad move on my side. Non-the-less, I did manage to collect a few:

Counsellor for the Islamic Republic of Iran
First Secretary & Consul for the Republic of Afganistan
Counselor/Deputy Head for the Republic of Korea
Deputy Military Attache for the People's Republic of China

Company Event & Awards

2010-02-12T14:57:00.002+02:00

Umniah hosts company-wide events a few times each year and yesterday I experienced my first major event. The CEO talked about our 3-2-1 strategic direction and a few Directors gave speeches about 2009 performance and 2010 targets. Employee Awards were then given, and we watched a short company video before heading to the buffet for a feast!

The event was pretty standard... but one sweet side note is that I got a Special Performance Award! Because I've implemented yoga outside of working hours, I now have a memento from Umnaih and 150 JD to boot! It's nice being recognized, especially after facing uphill battles. I kinda feel like the HR team felt sorry for me, and though they'd ake it up with this gesture. It really does make all the difference being shown appreciation and recognition (espeically in such a public manner) and goes to show that it's the small things that count.

FML & LML

2010-02-09T09:12:00.000+02:00

A few days ago I got a message from one of my academic law references asking if I’ve received a letter from UofC. I got really excited, and checked with my brother (who receives my mail in Calgary), only to have no letter. I contacted my reference again only to learn that he had made a mistake and not sent his letter of reference to my top choice law school. FML.

So now it looks like my plan B (living and working in India for a year) might become my plan A. It’s a pretty good alternative. Another year abroad learning about an entirely different culture and hopefully working in a company where I can make a difference (while growing professionally).

I’ve had a few hiccups with my law applications, and unfortunately, they have all been out of my control. It’s hard when you cross all your t’s and dot all your i’s in advance, only to realize that the few people you depend on make a mistake. Maybe it’s my fault planning too much in advance. If Jordan has taught me anything, people like to procrastinate. If I keep expecting others to work in my pre-planned fantasy land, I’ll continue having uphill battles throughout life.

So really, I LML (love my life). I’ve got time, flexibility and interest. My path will unfold as it’s supposed to. If I get into law, I was really supposed to get there, against all odds!

Roman Ruin Jerash

2010-02-05T22:58:00.002+02:00

I was as giddy as a kid in a candyshop at Jerash, one of the old Roman cities. I played mom/tour guide, with a printed out map and some information at each ‘stop’. We even had an older gentleman join our group for a few stops, marveling at our depth of knowledge in using the Internet as a guide instead of paying a tour guide.

The best part was the Hippodrome… the old sports arena where they had chariot races and other racing events. I took ‘History of Sport’ last year (yeah to deferring first year courses for your fifth year!) and it was so nice putting some of my university random knowledge to use- even if that just meant impressing my friends!

Technical Difficulties

2010-02-04T23:03:00.000+02:00

My work life is plagued with dependence. Baraa has been a Godsend throughout my time here, helping me with everything from talking to taxi drivers to preparing ‘picture heavy’ presentations. But this week I’ve had a whole new hurdle- IT.

I’m now giving trainings at two different buildings, and I use 5 different computers each week! Of course- the simple solution is to use one laptop. But as I’m an intern, that’s not an option. Using my personal laptop also isn’t a solution, as that would be breaking IS policy. So I’m stuck in IT hell.

This week the dilemma was using a camcorder and being able to watch the movies on the computer, facilitating ‘video feedback’ for my colleagues. All you need to do is plug in a wire… right? Wrong. I needed another program downloaded… and IT are the only people who can install programs. But this isn’t a high priority problem, and as I’m gone half of the day in trainings, and at different buildings, scheduling when we can fix the problem becomes part of the issue. After 4 days of struggling, I still can’t watch the videos on any computers. Just another day in IT wonderland.

Olive and Oak Bushwackin'

2010-02-03T22:53:00.003+02:00

Jordan’s ecotourism industry stems from the Royal Society for Conservation of Nature, with 5 different nature reserves throughout Jordan. Last weekend we checked out ‘Aljoun’, and decided to take the Prophet’s Trail. We were told we needed a guide… but for 120 JD for a 4 hour trek, we decided to blaze our own trail!

It was so refreshing walking through forests, passing by sheppards and watching sheep battle by ramming their heads together. Everything was so green, so lush. It didn’t feel like Jordan.

When we reached our destination (the birthplace of the prophet Elijah), we were treated to a panoramic view and traditional Jordanian hospitality. Even though we couldn’t stay for chai, he explained everything he could using broken English and lots of hand signals.

It was incredible seeing the land in its original form. Green, sheep and chai.

http://rscn.org.jo/orgsite/Reserves/AJLOUNFORESTRESERVE/Inanutshell/tabid/232/Default.aspx

Volunteering and NGOs in Jordan

2010-01-24T20:01:00.000+02:00

Over the past few weeks I've been meeting with NGOs here in Jordan, hoping to set up a volunteer program for Umniah employees. Coming from a city embedded with a volunteer culture (Calgary) has made this project more challenging than I originally thought.

There are some truly amazing NGOs in Jordan, and a lot of aid from groups like US AID or UNRWA. But people's perceptions towards volunteering is much different. Working in an NGO is viewed (by some) as a cushy job... one that pays well with a light workload. I don't prescribe to this opinion, but from some people I've talked to, that seems to be a general public opinion. So volunteering for a group that sponsors 'cushy lifestyles' isn't 'cool or popular'.

It's even interesting getting through the company's bureaucracy to get this program up and running. I thought it could be a great way to develop employee skills (working for a cause that's bigger than yourself) while giving back to the community (CSR is always good PR). But everyone seems to have conditions. The people responsible for CSR see it as financially sponsoring the NGOs. People in HR are good with it so long as it doesn't cut into employee efficiency. Development is fine as long as it's in your spare time.

I think I'm just starting to understand that life isn't as idealistic as my past experiences.

I met meat again

2010-01-21T21:23:00.000+02:00

A few weeks ago I was honored to be invited to a traditional Jordanian feast. Surrounded by Jordanian families, we feasted on mansef (lamb cooked in yogurt with rice) and kinoffal (cheese sweets). It was soooo good. The meat melted in your mouth.

Last weekend, after a bit of biking in the heat, our only lunch option was a BBQ... and again I helped myself to a herb/lamb kebob, some chicken shwarma and a stuffed meat pita. Again- it was good. Not so good that I'd make it a habit, but it definitely didn't make me sick.

It's interesting being a veg by choice. Some people need to for health reasons. Others feel they need to to support the environment. Still others just don't like the taste of meat. For me- it's just a choice. It's not necessary that I don't eat meat- I don't feel guilty that I 'fell off the wagon' and I like making healthy choices, having a positive side-effect on the enviro, and it's not (usually) a challenge for me.

I guess I was testing myself and maybe I failed. Meat tastes good. It's just not something I think is necessary. Just because something looks good doesn't mean you need to wear it.

Weather

2010-01-19T21:18:00.000+02:00

I feel like I'm going through a chinook... a warm spell in the midst of cold. Only we don't have wind!

After a month and a half of cold, fall like weather (around 10 degrees), it's now back to glorious sunshine, pre-summer on Canadian standards! Last weekend we went biking out by the Dead Sea and feeling the mid-day heat was such a nice change. Jordan is colder than people assume, but I'm still holding out and hoping that we get a little bit of snow :) Everyone is probably cursing me right now!

Performance Appraisal

2010-01-17T20:04:00.002+02:00

Last week the company went through the PA interviews, and I was fortunate enough to have 2 (as I work in two departments). The feedback was interesting.

The first meeting felt more like my Director was trying to mentor me. I had approached the whole self assessment wrong. Too honest. Too critical. I needed to celebrate my successes and glaze over the struggles. I came at it from the constructive criticism point of view... I needed to treat it like a job interview and remember that $$ (bonus) is attached. I needed to approach it like my colleagues (who I'm compared to). And I needed to realize that failure is only failure when I am the sole contributor. Failure due to environment isn't something I should be critical of...

The second meeting was a bit better, as it was with the HR department. We talked as friends would talk and I tried to be more 'up' for showing off the good things. She did explain that I needed to take things less personally- to not get so attached to projects. Good feedback in principle, hard to put into practice when most of your projects are fairly solo. But I will try.

What was interesting was the common feedback. I need to be a better team player- approach people more face to face or on the phone and use emails less. My emails need to be shorter. Spend more time chitchatting and less time writing proposals and action plans. I need to sit beside people and make sure they follow up with my requests. I need to smile more and stop showing my emotions (frustration) on my face. All good feedback upon reflection, but it was hard putting in perspective.

When I got out of both meetings, I was even more frustrated because I didn't know what was necessary HERE and what is necessary in business. I think the answer is somewhere in the middle, as constant interruptions and people expecting instant results isn't a healthy environment. But if the only communication is via emails and phone connections- why don't we all just work from home?

All in all I'm glad I've had this internship here and gone through this experience. I know that the Middle East isn't the best environment for my professional aspirations, but I think it helps knowing that the machine can be run in many different ways. Everyone just needs to read the manual first.

Cultural realities - work frustrations + challenges = learning to take distance from work

2010-01-09T11:19:00.005+02:00

Work here has been a rollercoaster. I feel like I'm in that children's song "Can't go under in, can't go over it, can't go through it, gotta go around it". After every small victory, another obstacle gets in the way, and the hardest part is that most of the obstacles come from within the company!

Case in point, I'm only working for Umniah until the end of March, and I've yet to start the 'real' English program. It took me a week to send the 'sign up' email to the agents, as it needed to be translated into Arabic, edited by a different person, and approved by someone else before it could go. The day before the deadline to sign up, I found out that agents don't have internet access, and couldn't complete the pre-assessment test. Once agents are signed up, they are committed through a policy that if they don't show up, they need to pay for it as attendance has been a huge problem in the Trial group and other training sessions.

It's hard to work on a project and put your heart into it, only to be constantly frustrated or disappointed. The sad reality is that I need to disengage from work. I need to take a step back and stop trying so hard. I've never treated a job like a job. It's always been a partial reflection on who I am, what I stand for. But this state of constant annoyance can't continue- I came to Jordan for the experience. It's okay if not every aspect of it 'exceeds expectations'.

Wine & Cheese in New Flat

2010-01-07T14:21:00.000+02:00

Ana (Romania), Kristina (Estonia) and I have moved out of the cold ground level flat in Souk Sultan and upgraded to a palace on University Street, adding an incredible addition to our team- Ewelina (Poland). To warm the flat, we welcomed our friends to a 'dress to impress' affair and it was a huge success. After 22 bottles of wine, 1 bottle of scotch, astrays full of cigarette butts and friends from every circle (interns, film artists, Christian rich kids, colleagues and Rotary scholars), the night came to a close at 4am.

I'm so thankful for my experience here. We have a great support network of AIESEC interns from all over the globe. People who have been extra-curricular leaders in the past and will go on to do great things in the future. We have local work colleagues who give us an inside look to local norms and cultural beliefs. We have American friends who study at the University of Jordan and translate Arabic and go on wild adventures with us. We have Christian rich friends who take us out dancing and drinking and make Jordan feel like America. And we've got our artsy local friends, people who are anti-America, and also reject the religious norms in Jordan, somewhere in between our colleagues and the Christians. Such a spectrum that I'm sure I'll better appreciate after I'm gone and reflecting.

For now- all I know is that I'm grateful for the mixture created.

New Year's in Aquaba

2010-01-03T15:07:00.000+02:00

My usual New Year's festivities include snow, fireworks and a lot of Canadian beer. This year we switched the snow for the beach, replaced the fireworks with a bon fire, and drank the night away with Amstel (Holland) beer.

Aquaba was absolutely fabulous. We had a posse of 20+ people and stayed about 6km south of Aquaba proper- which was perfect for a private party and beach side access. Cody, my former roommate and Central AM travel buddy, joined me as we counted down from 10 with sheesha in hand. Kristina and I enjoyed the next day lounging on the beach with hangover cure beer in hand, and I predictably got a sunburn on my back (I'll never learn). We snorkeled, ate fresh fish, slept in and had a typical tourist relaxing weekend on the beach.

When we got home, we moved into our new flat to start the year with a new state of mind.

Christmas in Bethlehem and Jerusalem

2009-12-29T22:18:00.003+02:00

It was my first Christmas away from my family... so I figured I do it in a proper manner and head to the birthplace of Jesus for the celebrations. Christmas eve was spent in sunny Bethlehem. We just walked right into the West Bank (apparently it was made easy for people to move to and from Bethlehem this Christmas... even Israelis were allowed inside the West Bank).

We walked to the main church (about 2km) and it was such an experience to see the wall snake through the land. The art on the wall was so inspired- it had so much depth and thought and passion put into it. It was wild to think that we put up walls still.

The church of Nativity (where you see the place Jesus was born and the place of his manger) was packed as expected- and that kind of made it loose the 'special feeling' I thought I'd get. It felt more like a tourist site that you see, take a picture, touch and then shuffle forward so the next person can go through the motions. That being said, I didn't feel like Bethlehem was THAT busy. The Manger Square was really more like a concert party than a church service, and tons of locals were out enjoying the night. I think my favorite part was going to Shepard's Fields (where they saw the star) and attending a mass in mini-church outside. It was so nice to go to Christmas Mass and take communion.

On Christmas Day we were in Jerusalem, and I was able to see the Jesus' tomb, and the place he was crucified. I also went to the Mount of Olives (where Jesus was betrayed by Juda) and walked throughout the city. Most importantly- I talked to my family :)

So Christmas eve was all about Jesus being born, and Christmas day was all about Jesus being crusified.

On boxing day I made my way to the Dead Sea, swam in a hot spring, swam in the sea, swam in a fresh water spring, and then settled in for a night of camping. It was sooo nice being back in nature- listening to birds and the sound of the waves on the shore. And I got the souvenir of mosquito bites! All in all, an incredible Christmas holiday.

Taxi Sensations

2009-12-22T23:10:00.000+02:00

I really enjoy local transportation of all shapes and sizes in various countries. Catching water boats, tuk-tuks, and buses with chickens on top makes my day. Here- the transportation of choice is taxis. For just 3JD ($5 CAD) you can get anywhere in the city. The only catch is you should probably know how to get there...

Last week we were on foot in the wind, couldn't find a hotel that was supposed to be very close, so we took the first taxi we could find that was free. After spending 20 minutes and 1 JD, we ended up in the exact same place we started. The only thing that had been accomplished was that he had proposed to me... and after I graciously declined... he asked again if I understood that he was researching for his wife. Needless to say, we got another cab... who stopped twice to ask for directions before dropping us off. The hotel would have been a 15 minute walk from our workplace, but instead we spent 50 minutes in 2 taxis :)

Yesterday I really wasn't sure if I would make it home. The taxi was old, and smelled like burning oil. Everytime we were at a red light, the driver would calmly turn off the car, put on the e-break, and rub his head. It's a bit strange not being able to communicate with everyone... I would have loved to hear about his day and his life.

So.... Cold

2009-12-21T23:03:00.002+02:00

When people said it was going to be cold in Jordan... I really thought that as a Canadian- it really couldn't be so bad. But what I didn't realize is that heating your home is optional. And we- being interns who've budgeted our money without heat- are now facing the consequences. It's colder in our flat than it is outside, and as we're on the ground level, sunlight rarely reaches our humble abode. There are options to turn on the diesel heater (very costly), use an electric heater or buy a gas heater... but my temporary status and frugal nature just can't allow such logic.

On the up side, getting to sleep has gotten better, as my pajamas have transformed into my long underwear, slippers and fleece hoodie... but I'm starting to realize I sleep in a ball, lifting my shoulders up for warmth and thus causing back/muscle pain throughout the day.

Who knew I'd learn to appreciate indoor heating in Jordan?

Travel Tips & Tricks

2009-12-11T16:00:00.000+02:00

After backpacking through Central America and touring around a few countries in the Middle East, I thought I'd share some of my experiences with you:

Watch for 'cheap drivers' who get paid on commission. They'll take you all around to the 'best spots in town', encourage you to buy the tour, the oil or the painting, but they may not have your best intentions in mind.
Sometimes the tour price doesn't include the salary for the guide. The guide survives on tips. The 'tour price' may be for the facilities, owner, and maintenance of vehicles/animals.
Always make sure you use taxis with meters... and make sure they turn on the meter.
If you book your hostel online, only pay for the first night (2nd night max) up front. You can usually barter the cost down when in person... but you usually need a place to stay the first night so you have an address to tell customs when arriving.
Know 'thank you' and 'excuse me' in the local language if possible (i.e. Shukgran & Affwon)
Mind your manners- smile and use your body language
Bring your own fruit & veg (washed and pre-cut), bread and nuts to cut down on costs and to avoid getting sit
Travel light- carry on only
Bring a towel and shower sandels if staying in a hostel... probably a communal bathroom.
Bring TP with you everywhere... sometimes you need to tip for tissues
Always pack a scarf... great for warmth, to cover up, to protect you from the sun... they're awesome AND beautiful!
Withdraw money in the local currency at ATMs
Ask your taxi driver, server, hotel staff, people on the street about their life & work. You learn so much more when you listen rather than just look.

Tel Aviv- Charm of Life

2009-12-09T22:08:00.000+02:00

Take 2 parts old buildings, mix in an equal part of plaster peeling off with 1 part wild vines crawling up walls. Mix in graffiti in Hebrew, trendy hipsters, 5 parts of life & sprinkle with inspired art and walla- you get Tel Aviv.

I took a step out of my ‘exotic blonde’ status and felt normal within the multicultural environment. People from all over the world have migrated to the State of Israel and live in a city that would look 'rough' if it weren't for the people that fill it with charm. It may have been founded on religion, but now it seems more like a way of life than anything else. There are many traditions followed, and on Saturday the streets are bare... but the synagogue's aren't necessarily full.

Pyramids!

2009-12-09T19:30:00.003+02:00

I went to Cairo to write a test and had a whirlwind day of sightseeing. After the test finished (which went great!) at 7pm, we went to the Market and were bombarded by people pushing us to buy their products... watches, necklaces, scarves, toys, books of the Koran. It was nice having an Arabic friend to barter with and drive prices down. The pyramids were obviously a must, and we took a camel ride away from the masses of people. We didn't see inside, but we did have a local guide for the two of us and got some amazing shots. Next up we went to a papyrus store & an Egyptian oil store, then off for a ride around the city before hitting the museum. It was incredible seeing King Tut's treasure and realizing how much of the museum was replicas. Finders keepers, losers weepers? We strolled along the Nile and finished the day eating Koshari (a carb overload- pasta, rice, lentils, fried onions, tomato paste and deliciousness). I can't wait to return for a more in-depth look at a nation so rich in history.

Religious Expeditions

2009-11-29T22:15:00.003+02:00

We're in the midst of Islamic holiday of Eid al-Adha here in Jordan, a celebration of Abraham's willingness to sacrifice his son for Allah, and as such, we have a 5 day holiday. So what better place to go and visit than the Promise Land?

My first stop was in Jerusalem. In three hours I had toured through the 4 quarters (Jewish, Muslim, Christian and Armenian). It's incredible how sacred this land really is. I saw the Western Wall (the most holy place in Judaism), the argued location of Jesus' crucification and where his tomb lies (very important for Christianity), and the Dome of the Rock (the 3rd most holy place in Islam, only behind Mecca and Medina in Saudi Arabia). And although tourism tarnishes the gates into the Old City, quiet back alleyways, shops and citizens leave visitors with a real feeling of pride they have to be living within these walls.

Driving through the Promise Land was an experience unto itself. I drank tea on the shores of the Sea of Galilee, where Jesus walked on water (and Israel's only source of fresh water). I saw fertile land to the North, full of orchards, forests (yes- real tree forests!), and grassy hills that remind me of pictures from Scotland. This of course is contrasted with dessert towards Jordan and concrete cities sprawling into the sea. In mere hours I had toured the Northern half of Israel and really started to appreciate why this land is so valued- not only have people been settled here for thousands of years, but this land has so much diversity- so much to give & so much fertility. Bananas, dates, apples, tomatoes... most food can easily be grown here (so long as it doesn't require too much water). And although the coastline is littered with cities, these inland pastures still maintain their individuality- their purity.

I have many more Holy places to visit, more questions to ask, more knowledge to gain. My next step is to visit Bethlehem for Christmas Eve...

Time Flies...

2009-11-21T17:34:00.002+02:00

Life is wonderfully crazy now! Last weekend I was in Kuwait, work is in full swing, next week we have a 5 day holiday and the weekend after that I'm off to Cairo. Wild.

Kuwait was great. It was so eye opening staying with a Canadian who teaches grade 4 there. Her life is so different from mine, as Kuwait has so much more wealth and follows a traditional lifestyle. In Jordan I have local friends, boys and girls, Muslims and Christians. The Kuwait reality is much more isolated. Kuwait is also expensive. When I first heard that Amman is the most expensive city in the Middle East, I braced myself for dipping into my savings. But that calculation was based on people's average income. The true cost here is reasonable... but the true cost in Kuwait is $200 CAD for a normal weekend (taxis, food and a few cheap souvenirs). People that paint the Middle East with the same brush really shouldn't. Life changes so much when you fly 1 hour away.

Spoken Communication- Work Update

2009-11-09T22:04:00.003+02:00

I'm currently in the midst of taking a 'Spoken Communication' course with senior Umniah management colleagues and I'm loving life! It's incredible being able to use skills I picked up during my time in the SU and perfecting them with a professional. PEEP (Pause, Energy, Eye Contact, Pause)... so simple but so easily forgotten when you're in a meeting, making a presentation, delivering a speech, or even in everyday life. This is the type of training I would be so grateful to have back home, and now I'm in Amman and benefiting from such an incredible experience. The course is being delivered by the Black Isle Communications founder, who works with CEOs, politicians and other business professionals around the world (they even have an office in Canada)! I'm soooo lucky.

The whole work experience here has been such a ride. At times it's been difficult (walking into a job with different expectations), but on the whole it's been incredible. People here are genuinely interested in what I have to say and what past experiences I have. People here are genuinely supportive if you have new ideas and if you take initiative. I started out as a 'Team Leader/Trainer' and now my role is 'Customer Advocacy Officer'... which really means that I've been able to shape my position and duties. I'm varying my experience by heading up a 'Learning Cafe' for our employees, supervising and developing an English language training program in the Call Center, working with HR (and soon Marketing) on creating a 'Umniah University' program- including mentorship and community skill development, and I'll even be enhancing employee wellness by teaching yoga!!! Variety is the spice of life and my work stew is definitely got flavor :)

the life of a local?

2009-11-07T09:31:00.002+02:00

I've been here for just over a month and it's starting to sink in that I live in Amman... and I now only have 5 months left! The first month was fabulous, as we did a lot of low budget, local events (like watching documentaries, hanging out at cafes, etc.) but my plans for the next few months might make my life a bit more crazy (but as you all know- the busier I am- the better!) Next Wed I'm flying to Kuwait to visit Marieke for the weekend, then at the beginning of December I'm going to Cairo to re-write the LSAT. I'm trying to organize a trip to Bethlehem for Christmas (a friend from home is hoping to join me on the trip), and then Beirut for New Years! When it rains, it pours :)

Work life has improved ten-fold. I'm now working with HR at our Headquarter 1 building for 2 days per week and the work there is really exciting. I'm reviewing and updating company policies (I love policy work--- I'm such a geek), and we're implementing some really exciting new programs for employees... like a 'Learning Cafe' (similar to UofC Alumni's 'Science Cafe'). It's funny because when I agreed to this internship, I knew the job duties weren't an ideal alignment with my future plans... but I really wanted to live in Jordan and the job sounded okay. Then when I got here and it wasn't 'perfect', I simply pushed and pushed and pushed until the job changed to a point where I'm really happy. My poor family has heard about it every step of the way- reminding me to be patient and to focus on the experience. But in the end- I don't think anyone was surprised to hear that I didn't settle and changed the job to fit my needs.

The Real Costs

2009-11-02T18:30:00.000+02:00

So I often wonder how much it really costs to live in another country... so I've tallied my costs for a month to give you a glimpse into Amman local life. The JD is approximately equal to the Euro, and 1 JD ~= 1.50 CAD.

1 month total = 223 JD + 31.25 JD +58 JD +88 JD + 43 JD = 443.25 JD

Wed, Sept 30- Arrival to Jordan 11pm! = 10 JD

airport VISA 10 JD

Thurs, Oct 1- Went to Umniah headquarters, hung out with AIESECers and went to a club = 156 JD

Rent 103 JD, Deposit 33 JD, Cell Phone (110 JD but get 100 JD credit from Umniah ;) ) 10 JD, Club cover charge 5 JD, Late night Lebanese spread 1 JD, Taxis 3 JD, Food 1 JD

Fri, Oct 2-Went shopping and dined at a restaurant that overlooks Amman = 51 JD

Household items 16 JD, Personal items (hairdryer, sheets, etc.) 12 JD, Food - Grocery 12 JD; Dining Out 9 JD, Taxis 2 JD

Sat, Oct 3- Relaxed all day and went to our AIESEC reception dinner = 6 JD

Ceasar Salad, Water & Sheesha 6 JD

Week 1 = 223 JD

Sun, Oct 4-First day of work!

Mon, Oct 5- stayed in = 2.5 JD

Nose spray 2.5 JD

Wed, Oct 7- Went to a jazz show (for free!) and had falafel on Rainbow Street!

Thurs, Oct 8- Hung out with friends in their flat, went to Books @ Cafe for sheesha = 2.25 JD

Cigarettes 1.25 JD, Taxi 2 JD

Fri, Oct 9- Went downtown to watch the parade (but were too early), went to a friend's home to hike the Amman hills, then went to Rainbow Street for sheesha. = 5.5 JD

Taxis 3 JD, Sheesha 2.5 JD

Sat, Oct 10- Rented a car and took a trip to Karak castle. = 22 JD

Entrance Fee 1 JD, Audio Guide 5 JD, Random Local Guide 1 JD, Gas Money 10 JD, Cucumber/Yogurt Salad & Eggplant Salad 5 JD

Week 2 = 31.25 JD

Sun, Oct 11- movie night with co-workers = 12.5 JD

Final Fantasy 4 movie in 3D 8 JD, Food 3 JD, Taxi 1.5 JD

Mon, Oct 12-Watched "No Impact Man" Film and Rainbow Street Cafe = 3 JD

Food at Old View Cafe 3 JD

Tues, Oct 13- Had our first Arabic lesson! = 22.5 JD

Shopped for food, household items, etc.- 18.5JD, taxis = 4 JD (gave a big tip to a kind man with a big family)

Wed, Oct 14- Hosted the other 'intern house' for dinner = 5 JD

food = 5 JD

Thurs, Oct 15- Went to a farm (summer home mansion!)

Fri, Oct 16- Toured farms, went out to Rainbow Street, and went to a friend's flat to hang out = 9 JD

breakfast = 2 JD, gas money = 2 JD, cafe drink+sheesha = 5 JD

Sat, Oct 17- Shopped around Souk Soltane and had friends over for dinner = 7 JD

food = 7 JD

Week 3 = 58 JD

Sun, Oct 18- went to watch a Jordanian pianist = 2 JD

taxi = 2 JD

Mon, Oct 19- went to mall with Baraa and Rehaf = 5 JD

Taxi & drink = 5 JD

Wed, Oct 21- Went to Rotary gala = 5 JD

4JD taxi, 1 JD falafel & oranges

Thurs, Oct 22- Had a party at our flat = 3 JD

snacks = 2 JD, taxi = 1 JD

Fri, Oct 23- Went to Wadi Rum!

Sat, Oct 24- Wadi Rum, Aquaba = 73 JD

Car rental + gas + snack food for 2 days = 23 JD, 6 tall-boys = 12 JD, camping with Bedouins w/ 2 meals and transportation = 31 JD, Camel Ride = 5 JD, lunch at Aquaba = 1 JD, taxi = 1 JD

Week 4 = 88 JD

Sun, Oct 25-

vegetables, pita = 2 JD

Tues, Oct 27- Watched 'The Day After Peace' documentary for free; then went and listened to Cuban music

taxi = 1 JD

Wed, Oct 28- Hung out with friends at our flat

lunch = 1 JD

Thurs, Oct 29- Went to a friend's flat for his birthday

taxi = 1 JD

Fri, Oct 30- Went to with Umniah colleagues to Wadi Ma'en (hiking through a hot spring water for 18 km!), then hung out at Vis a vis cafe overlooking the Dead Sea = 10 JD

Sat, Oct 31- Breakfast & Shopping in Souk Soltane (our area), then the first international meal (Indian!) = 28 JD

breakfast = 1 JD, jeans = 10 JD, sandles = 5 JD, shirt/dress = 5 JD, supper = 7 JD

Week 5 = 43 JD

A day of epic proportions

2009-10-31T11:11:00.003+02:00

The stars aligned on Friday. We saw ancient churches with holy land mosaics, stood atop Mt. Nebo in Moses' footsteps and gazed at the Promise Land, hiked through a hot spring river, bouldering & bathing, finished at a cafe overlooking the Dead Sea and we did it all with my Umniah local colleagues and roomies from Romania and Estonia!

Starting from the top- we woke up at 6am (but it really felt like 7am due to the time change), then piled onto a bus which was full of entertainment from a bongo and my colleagues singing Palestinian songs. I was so giddy when we stopped in Madaba to view the huge mosaic map of the Holy Land. I was able to converse with my friend Baraa about Christianity vs. Jeudaism vs. Islamic beliefs, sharing and opening minds and hearts. The next stop was Mt. Nebo, where we had a breath-taking view and could even see the tree and cave where Moses spent a lot of his time. Reading about these religious monuments and then seeing them in person really hit me straight in the heart.

The hike through Wadi Ma'en was amazing. Our guide said it was 7km but it's actually 18km! The river was warm (its fed by a hot spring) and hiking through a dessert valley is incredible. There were random palm trees throughout, wild blue hues in the water and flies everywhere. My colleagues aren't seasoned hikers (for many of them it was their first time hiking) and they all made it (albeit exhausted). We actually walked through the river the entire way!

After all that hard work we were treated to a cafe with a view of the Dead Sea. Laughing, learning Arabic and sharing stories with local Jordanians really captured what I was looking for with my move to the Middle East!

English and Exotic

2009-10-27T09:37:00.002+03:00

I packed my leatherman, an extensive medical kit, headlamp, ductape, safety pins... I even brought a hot glue gun "just in case". I left home with minimal expectations, focusing on being objective and open to new opportunities. I thought I was ready for anything. But the one thing I wasn't ready for was a lot of male attention and being considered an English expert!

AIESEC brings interns from all over the globe and often our common language is English... but even with my international friends I'm finding it necessary to explain my 'native' sayings. And to be honest, I'm sometimes embarrased by my colloquial ways! I had to explain, "Holding down the fort" the other day. I also didn't realize that being a native English speaker is so pretigious... even at work people call ahead of time to let me know that they're going to stop by 'for a chat'. Or I'll suggest doing a training session on time management, and then ask for it to be altered so that students can have some 'social talk' time.

And men are very respectful here. You will never be inappropriately touched or anything like that. But when I walk to work it's crazy! The honks, blinks, starring... I really didn't expect that at all. It's harmless and I know that I look different (plus, I don't wear a hijab), but wow! That being said, the men I do talk to are super respectful. But being a stranger on a street is completely different!

A Bday Celebration w/ Dessert!

2009-10-26T09:33:00.005+03:00

The adventure began when I stepped behind the rental car wheel and drove into the Amman streets where the driving pre-requisite is cutting people off, flashing your lights for people to get out of the way and using your horn! I took a deep breathe, headed towards the 7th Circle (giant traffic circles act as major landmarks here) and made it to the airport to pick up my UofC friend, Marieka. She flew in from Kuwait (she teaches grade 4 there) and I can't explain how nice it was to have a friend from home to re-connect with.

Our next stop was our apartment flat... we threw a bit of a rager (30+ people isn't bad for only being in the country for 3 weeks!) and were later informed by our landlord that it's culturally unacceptable to have people in your flat past 11pm. Oops... lesson learned for next time!

On Friday (my bday) we headed to Wadi Rum... a beautiful dessert with massive rock mountains throughout it (Lawerence of Arabia made it pop culture famous). Marieka, Trisha and I immediately started to check out the massive landscape and boulder up whatever we could. We were camping with Bedouins and that night we were treated to food cooked under the ground and traditional music. We saw the amazing starry night and later on it even rained! The next morning we were able to ride camels and went south to dip our feet in the Red Sea at Aquaba. It was perfect... camping, hiking, camels, friends, sea... life is good.

Bored of Blog Blah?

2009-10-22T15:38:00.002+03:00

I'm starting to realize that my blog is a bit boring... no pictures, no videos... nada! But rest assured, I've been trying. Unfortunately, we have a limited internet plan, and I haven't seen any Internet Cafes around. Sorry!

It's strange with this limitation came a new realization- I'm living a life of constant transition. Not quite a traveler, not quite a local... somewhere in between. I've never gone through these 'mid-level relationships' with people before. You keep your guard up a little (as you'll likely be seeing these people for the next 6 months and you don't want to start out on the wrong foot), but you also need to let more people in... you need to turn up your extroverted characteristics and be up for any adventure. It's really quite strange actually- a lot more strange that you think. Just like the Internet network... you want to be in for the long haul, and you need something for the next 6 months, but what's the start up cost and how much size/speed do you really need?

The best break!

2009-10-21T16:03:00.004+03:00

Life just went from good to great! I got a lucky break at my job and now after speaking to a few 'high ups' in the company, I've been given the green light to start developing new programs that will enhance employee skills... beyond teaching English! This breakthrough has been the breathe of fresh air I needed. With this empowerment comes a responsibility to follow through with a high quality new training program that will be beneficial for employees and help develop my professional skills.

Empowerment is so simple and I really feel that more people should adopt it. Rehaf is a trainee who has come to Umniah to help develop the English training project, and I'm her acting supervisor. By giving her the responsiblity to develop this program "like her baby", it will end up being a better product than if I was simply delegating tasks to her... the collaboration is key and she puts in more than 20 hrs each week towards this (2 full days at work and time at home). Empowerment is fostering growth everywhere!

My childhood in another world

2009-10-17T16:08:00.000+03:00

This weekend we went somewhere close to my heart- a farm! It was actually a summer-home mansion on a farm, but I didn’t care… I was in the country. I could see the stars without light pollution, I could wander through a vegetable garden and I played with dogs. We actually toured around a few farms owned by the same family and were able to see dogs, chickens, sheep, horses, rabbits and even peacocks! They also had fields of apples, grapes, tomatoes, cacti, squash and pumpkins. It was great- another adventure 20 minutes out of Amman and into the country attitude.

In the morning we had a feast of hummus, pita, olives, tomatoes, onions, a lentil dip, feta cheese, yogurt/sour cream, sour milk and falafel. Apparently that’s a traditional country breakfast! We went to 5 different shops (bakery, falafel shop, vegetable shop, milk shop and market) to gather our materials, and for 9 people the total cost was only 9 JD (~$14). Can’t beat that.

Workplace realities and norms

2009-10-11T16:09:00.004+03:00

Jordanians work hard! In my office people always work 9 hour days (8-5 or 9-6), rarely taking their 1 hour lunch break and instead opting to snack at their desk. The only time I've seen anyone 'take a break' is for a cigarette. Coffee is delivered to our desks upon request (usually twice per day) and if you want anything from the snack bar (just 2 floors below), people usually have it delivered! This has created Turkish coffee addiction for myself... usually they're served in small expresso cups but I've requested the regular sized coffee cup and love the strong coffee flavor... twice a day... every day!

What I'm starting to realize is that lunch, the most important meal of the day, is usually eaten as a family when everyone arrives home from work or school. It all started to make sense when they announced that we were having breakfast at 12:30 this afternoon! I think I might adopt the practice of eating pizza for breakfast :)

As for business correspondence, it is all done in English and most people have no problems communicating in English. But there seems to be a clear divide between those who will speak English and those who pretend they can not. Everyone takes English in school, now starting in the first grade, but there are many people who will/can not communicate in English- so learning Arabic is a must if you live in Jordan... even if it's just the basics to get around. And just because they can speak English doesn't mean that they will... wouldn't you want to communicate in your native tonge if most everyone could understand?

The Social Side

2009-10-10T18:09:00.004+03:00

This past week has been great, as we've been able to get out and really see Amman. Here's a pic from the jazz show we went to, with Stanley Jordan, an American guitarist artist duetting with a local jazz hero, Omar, playing a Jordanian folk song.

It was also a great weekend to be in town, as Amman celebrated their 100th anniversary. Just think, in 100 years they've grown to 2 million people! They hosted their first ever parade in town, and had a concert at the Roman Amplitheatre with Jordanian artists.

As amazing as these outings have been, the best times have been simply hanging out, smoking sheesha, and eating falafel sandwiches for JD 0.4 (less than $1). Rainbow Street has a great view of the city, and it's said that Angelina Jolie walked along the street earlier this month.

Work Week One

2009-10-08T20:06:00.000+03:00

This week at work has been interesting, to say the least. Things started off on an uncomfortable foot, as I was told I would be developing and implementing an English language training program for employees of various skill levels in various departments. A challenge to say the least as I have no experience in teaching or in formal English! The up side is helping Jordanians with a tangible skill that they want to develop- and free of charge (for the employees that is!) Making a difference where you are needed is really all you can ask for in your work.

That being said, today I received wonderful news. I now get to supervise a trainee who will be the primary person in charge of the English language training program, and instead I'll be able to help in developing English documents for the company. Right up my alley! I find out more about what my job description includes on Sunday (we work Sunday-Thursday) and am ready for the weekend.

Just goes to show... patience pays off!

Training how to Train people... in Arabic!

2009-10-05T18:32:00.002+03:00

I've just finished my first two days of work and have an interesting experience to report. I was hired as a 'Trainer/Team Leader', and as such I work in a department full of 'Trainers' and 'Quality Control Analysts'. For the past 2 days I've been part of the session intended to train effective trainers... from what I can understand it seems to be a high quality program- the only downside is that it's in Arabic! I wish I could report that I'm picking it up, but alas, my vocabulary is an extensive 7 words.

On the up side I skipped half of the training today to read through every Umniah webpage that exists (both internal and external), and I now feel like I have a grip on the company. AND- there might be some projects I can help develop in the future. No matter what happens this AIESEC internship is going to be a positive, challenging experience.